Dogs Attacking Make News but What About Dogs Who Behave Well

05.27 in about, attacking, behave, but, Dog, dogs, make, news, well, what, who

Saw this question posted from a reporter. Of course I had to add my two cents...

"There has been a spate of pit bull attacks and maulings of children in metro Atlanta. What can dog owners do for ALL dogs to help socialize them and raise them so they are not a threat to children or anyone else? Also looking for any classes or programs to help dog owners."

Its unfortunate that pit bulls have received the reputation they have. There are SO many other pure bred and mixed breed dogs that bite, but often get overlooked or go unreported. As a certified professional dog trainer Ive worked with many dog training students whose dogs were bullied and even bitten by non pit bull canines. I even knew someone whose Manchester Terrier was killed by a Golden Retriever - but you dont hear about those stories. It would be nice to see more stories about how the sweet pit bull behaves graciously around other animals and children.

Although breeds were bred for specific traits, and certain breeds can do a lot more damage that others, I think its unfair that we "profile". And if we do, then as a society we need to do something to help the situation, not make it worse. Educating the public on dog behavior, more humane training methods that are effective in more ways than just getting the behavior, better monitoring of irresponsible breeding, and the cessation of dog fighting. And this is just a start!

Let it be known that 1) I am not breed biased 2) I adore pit bulls as much as any other breed, pure or mixed...But Im more attracted to personality, not looks or pedigree. I mean hey, look at me, I myself am a mixed breed and not supermodel material - so youre looking at someone that has relied more on her personality than anything else...except for my ability to cook ;->

To address this query allow me to say:

• "What can dog owners do of ALL dogs to help socialize them and raise them so they are not a threat to children or anyone else?" > If the owner(s) begin with a puppy, begin socialization as soon as possible. This doesnt mean taking their dog to an off-leash dog park when theyre 8 weeks old. But they can certainly introduce the puppy to new sights, smells, sounds, people and activities (car rides to the mall, schools, sitting on a lap in an outdoor cafe area) etc...You can protect the dogs health, while still exposing him or her to their new human surroundings. I understand vets wanting dogs to be protective health wise, but there are still safe measures for allowing dogs to be socialized to all Ive mentioned above. More dogs are euthanized because of behavioral issues versus dying of health related problems.
• Make experiences fun and non threatening: understand dog body language - Dogs will let you know if something is causing stress (stop eating is the first). Go slowly to socializing experiences, allowing the dog to build confidence.
• Train using humane, non-threatening, non-coercive methods. Again, this goes back to "make it fun!" Some of the pop-culture methods involve intimidation and fear invoking methods. No animal responds in a happy way to that. He or she will "behave" out of fear of being hurt. Not a good way to motivate any animal.
• For adult dogs, still practice taking him or her to various places to help them adapt, but again make it fun - and watch for signs of stress and other triggers that might cause a negative reaction. And if the dog does behave in an undesired way, do NOT punish. If you were upset, yelling at you, smacking you, and telling you were wrong wouldnt make you less upset, right?

• "Any classes or programs to help dog owners." > Being a graduate from the SF SPCA Academy for Dog Trainers, as well as other programs that are more science-based, Id say to for dog owners to begin by looking for classes that are taught by certified professional dog trainers that have the same philosophy and use the same methodology for teaching - both the dogs and the humans.

There are some trainers that use "Positive Reinforcement", but then they will also recommend choke, prong and electronic collars for "training". The former is fine, but the latter can actually have the opposite effect and inadvertently train aggression into a dog. The same goes for squirt bottles and Citronella collars. A good site to look for trainers is the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers.

I would also suggest owners contact the person training (or a knowledgeable assistant) and ask questions. Ask if they can observe a class, even for just 10 or 15 minutes (watching an entire class intrudes on those who have paid for the trainers time and information). Ask to talk with other students and get their feedback too.

Just like parents sending a child off to school, its important to check the school out and meet the staff and teachers first. Not just show up or ship them off without investigating. Same thing should go for dogs and dog training classes. Word of mouth is also a good way to go, as long as you trust the source.

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Available information on training dogs

12.12 in available, Dog, dogs, information, on, training

If you have never owned a dog before, the process of dog training may seem to be an impossible task. There is so much information available on training dogs that its easy to become completely overloaded with no idea of where to begin. Below, you will find some suggestions on getting started with dog training.

Most dogs are eager to please and respond better to rewards than punishment. You must first show your dog what you expect them to do and then repeat the process until they get it. This is the most effective way to modify a dogs behavior or teach him a trick. You must show them through repetition and reward.



 Challenge your dog often. Provide your dog with fun ways to "quiz" it in order to ensure that it hasnt lost past training.

 Never punish your dog while trying to train him. Taking preventative measures to avoid the occurrence of a bad behavior to begin with is always best, however, if your dog does get out of line, demonstrate how it should have been done rather than scolding him. Training your dog is a great way to develop a positive relationship with him.

 Learn alternatives to treats as positive reinforcement when training your dog. Treats do work for teaching a new behavior. However, you may not always have a treat with you to congratulate you dog outside of regular training sessions. Verbal praise and physical affection, such as hugs and petting, can be just as effective as treats to reinforce any desired behavior when training your dog.

 Include plenty of physical activity in your dogs training routine. Dogs can get bored easily. A bored dog will try and find something interesting to do, and training is not usually interesting. It is easier for your dog to focus if he is happy and well exercised. A long walk or a brisk run are great ways to get rid of some of your dogs excess energy.

 Anxiety is frequently the cause of destructive chewing behavior. Give your dogs something they are allowed to chew on like a toy or treat, and put them in their kennel while you are away.

 During the dog training process, it is a good idea to use various treats as rewards for your dogs good behavior. Do not use the treats that you would give your dog day to day. They should be specific to training and ensuring the feeling of being rewarded for something specific. The dog will also be more likely to obey if they know they will receive something special.

 Your dog should be happy with everyone in your home so he does not suffer from separation anxiety. The dogs relationships to other people serve to dilute its unhealthy level of dependence and fixation on you that causes it so much grief.

 When possible, puppy training is the most effective form of dog training. This is not a hard and fast rule, but young dogs do respond better to training. When you train your dog as a puppy, he will be a well-behaved dog throughout his life.

 It is important to take your dog on a rather long walk if you plan on being gone for several hours. If your dog is exhausted, he wont experience as much anxiety when you leave.

 Any introductions to new animals should be made very slowly. Give your own pet great consideration before bringing another animal into the house. You can boost bonding efforts by getting a new pet that has a complimentary personality to your own.

 Try not to take your stress out on your dog by yelling at it because of your bad day or bad mood. Unless your dog has done something that warrants scolding, you should always take on a positive tone during your interactions.

 A first step to training a puppy is get him used to hearing his name. Call him using his name and teach him how to respond when called. Your puppys name should be one of its first words learned. Its important that the time spent with your puppy is quality time. Spend your time playing with your puppy. This way he will get to know you quicker and will begin to trust you faster. The puppy will be more open to more training down the line.

 Mentally stimulating your dog is important to its health and happiness. Frequent outside walks, chew toys and even healthy snacks offer great options for entertaining your dog. Any dog who is bored will find a number of ways to amuse himself and spend his time, such as chomping your favorite pair of shoes or digging up your prized botanical collection!

 You can rest assured that when you train your puppy, they may have an accident in the house. Immediately clean up every accident for training purposes. Carpets are known to trap the smell of urine and encourage the dog to return to that spot for further marking. Buy a product specially designed to neutralize odors.

 Large dogs that prefer to lie down on their backs or stretch, out should have a big bed to get comfortable in. Large, flat rectangle beds are made for large dogs. You can also get a little creative, and just buy a mattress made for a babys crib. Simply utilize fitted crib sheets to cover it. They can be removed and washed very easily. These mattresses are usually waterproof also.

 Use dog treats that are tasty for your dog, and are of high value in order to obtain great results. Since these treats will be handed out sparingly, it should not matter too much if they are usually off limit items.

 Although a harness is more comfortable for dogs, it does not offer as much control as a cinch-type collar. Keep your dog on his harness, but also use your cinching collar. Tug on his collar when its absolutely necessary, and your dog will soon learn how to obey wearing the harness alone.

 You can prevent your dog from destroying your home by keeping it outdoors when you are away from the house. When this isnt possible, you want to provide things that both appeal to your dog and that are okay for the dog to chew on. Establishing acceptable chews toys is also about keeping those things you do not want your dog to chew up behind closed doors or well out out of reach.

 By following these tips, you should have a better understanding of how to train your dog. Putting these tips into action while training your pup can help the two of you forge a wonderful ongoing relationship..

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Are We Breeding Shelter Dogs

10.10 in are, breeding, Dog, dogs, shelter, we

Ive been up in Oakland at the APDT annual conference for the past few days. Yesterdays Fear and Anxiety in Dogs symposium had some good information, but one topic Im quite passionate about is the issues with dogs ending up in shelters. Whose fault is it? In my professional certified dog trainer opinion, its certainly not the dogs.

I dont believe its anyones intention for dogs to end up in shelters, even breeders. Just like when parents have children, Im sure its never their intention to breed criminals - but it happens. Unlike humans though, dogs often arent provided an environment where they can make choices we want them to make. Theyre left to fend for themselves, then get blamed and in trouble for acting like a dog - humans get frustrated, then they take the dog to the shelter attaching labels like "My dog it aggressive and dominant, I cant deal with him (or her) any more."

What can be done? Prevention and Socialization!!! Sure, puppy training classes and basic dog training classes are great, but it needs to go beyond the basic 6-session dog obedience class. Just like humans go through a multitude of developmental stages, so do our dogs. It doesnt stop at just one class.

• Teach dogs behaviors they need to exist in our human world. And continue reinforcing those skills learned.
• What items to chew on and when.
• How to be alone and entertain themselves through enrichment programs designed for dogs.
• Meet and greet hundreds of humans while theyre young pups, and again continue allowing them to meet new people, in different places and in different situations.
• CONTINUE socialization during adolescence so they can continue learning and adapting to their environment.
• Understand what normal behaviors are for dogs.

For many of these dogs its the environment they are born into, and are raised in, that is often the cause for the issues that land them in the shelters - so again this falls back onto the shoulders of the humans that have the most influence over them and their quality of life. I only wish that some day there are universal training protocols, "Gold Standards" if you will, for dog training. Until then its wise to be critical thinkers, use common sense, and plan for how to raise a healthy and happy dog in order to keep them out of the shelter.

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GENERAL HISTORY OF DOGS

12.05 in bad, behaviors, Dog, dogs, general, history, how, of, stop, to

GENERAL HISTORY OF DOGS.

There is no incongruity in the idea that in the very earliest period of mans habitation of this world he made a friend and companion of some sort of aboriginal representative of our modern dog, and that in return for its aid in protecting him from wilder animals, and in guarding his sheep and goats, he gave it a share of his food, a corner in his dwelling, and grew to trust it and care for it. Probably the animal was originally little else than an unusually gentle jackal, or an ailing wolf driven by its companions from the wild marauding pack to seek shelter in alien surroundings. One can well conceive the possibility of the partnership beginning in the circumstance of some helpless whelps being brought home by the early hunters to be tended and reared by the women and children. Dogs introduced into the home as playthings for the children would grow to regard themselves, and be regarded, as members of the family

In nearly all parts of the world traces of an indigenous dog family are found, the only exceptions being the West Indian Islands, Madagascar, the eastern islands of the Malayan Archipelago, New Zealand, and the Polynesian Islands, where there is no sign that any dog, wolf, or fox has existed as a true aboriginal animal. In the ancient Oriental lands, and generally among the early Mongolians, the dog remained savage and neglected for centuries, prowling in packs, gaunt and wolf-like, as it prowls today through the streets and under the walls of every Eastern city. No attempt was made to allure it into human companionship or to improve it into docility. It is not until we come to examine the records of the higher civilisations of Assyria and Egypt that we discover any distinct varieties of canine form.

The dog was not greatly appreciated in Palestine, and in both the Old and New Testaments it is commonly spoken of with scorn and contempt as an "unclean beast." Even the familiar reference to the Sheepdog in the Book of Job "But now they that are younger than I have me in derision, whose fathers I would have disdained to set with the dogs of my flock" is not without a suggestion of contempt, and it is significant that the only biblical allusion to the dog as a recognised companion of man occurs in the apocryphal Book of Tobit (v. 16), "So they went forth both, and the young mans dog with them."

The great multitude of different breeds of the dog and the vast differences in their size, points, and general appearance are facts which make it difficult to believe that they could have had a common ancestry. One thinks of the difference between the Mastiff and the Japanese Spaniel, the Deerhound and the fashionable Pomeranian, the St. Bernard and the Miniature Black and Tan Terrier, and is perplexed in contemplating the possibility of their having descended from a common progenitor. Yet the disparity is no greater than that between the Shire horse and the Shetland pony, the Shorthorn and the Kerry cattle, or the Patagonian and the Pygmy; and all dog breeders know how easy it is to produce a variety in type and size by studied selection.

In order properly to understand this question it is necessary first to consider the identity of structure in the wolf and the dog. This identity of structure may best be studied in a comparison of the osseous system, or skeletons, of the two animals, which so closely resemble each other that their transposition would not easily be detected.

The spine of the dog consists of seven vertebrae in the neck, thirteen in the back, seven in the loins, three sacral vertebrae, and twenty to twenty-two in the tail. In both the dog and the wolf there are thirteen pairs of ribs, nine true and four false. Each has forty-two teeth. They both have five front and four hind toes, while outwardly the common wolf has so much the appearance of a large, bare-boned dog, that a popular description of the one would serve for the other.

Nor are their habits different. The wolfs natural voice is a loud howl, but when confined with dogs he will learn to bark. Although he is carnivorous, he will also eat vegetables, and when sickly he will nibble grass. In the chase, a pack of wolves will divide into parties, one following the trail of the quarry, the other endeavouring to intercept its retreat, exercising a considerable amount of strategy, a trait which is exhibited by many of our sporting dogs and terriers when hunting in teams.

A further important point of resemblance between the Canis lupus and the Canis familiaris lies in the fact that the period of gestation in both species is sixty-three days. There are from three to nine cubs in a wolfs litter, and these are blind for twenty-one days. They are suckled for two months, but at the end of that time they are able to eat half-digested flesh disgorged for them by their dam or even their sire.

The native dogs of all regions approximate closely in size, coloration, form, and habit to the native wolf of those regions. Of this most important circumstance there are far too many instances to allow of its being looked upon as a mere coincidence. Sir John Richardson, writing in 1829, observed that "the resemblance between the North American wolves and the domestic dog of the Indians is so great that the size and strength of the wolf seems to be the only difference.

It has been suggested that the one incontrovertible argument against the lupine relationship of the dog is the fact that all domestic dogs bark, while all wild Canidae express their feelings only by howls. But the difficulty here is not so great as it seems, since we know that jackals, wild dogs, and wolf pups reared by bitches readily acquire the habit. On the other hand, domestic dogs allowed to run wild forget how to bark, while there are some which have not yet learned so to express themselves.

The presence or absence of the habit of barking cannot, then, be regarded as an argument in deciding the question concerning the origin of the dog. This stumbling block consequently disappears, leaving us in the position of agreeing with Darwin, whose final hypothesis was that "it is highly probable that the domestic dogs of the world have descended from two good species of wolf (C. lupus and C. latrans), and from two or three other doubtful species of wolves namely, the European, Indian, and North African forms; from at least one or two South American canine species; from several races or species of jackal; and perhaps from one or more extinct species"; and that the blood of these, in some cases mingled together, flows in the veins of our domestic breeds.

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Violence Begets Violence in Pet Dogs Too Yippee For Dog Behavior Studies!

04.28 in begets, behavior, Dog, dogs, for, in, pet, studies, too, violence, yippee

"Do unto others" I say - especially when it comes to teaching my dog training classes and private dog training clients. The last thing I would ever want when learning a knew skill or being taught how to "behave" is to be yelled at or smacked! So why is this acceptable with our pets? In the dog training classes and other dog training services I offer, its not! Thats one reason people come to me in the first place.

It seems that there are some provocative dog training methods out there that have become quite popular due to the media and television. Unlike the Food Network and all of the cooking shows, some of the dog training methods being shown dont seem to be as "user friendly" - for both dogs and the humans...unless of course youre the star of the show. 

Yes, there is more than one way to train a dog, just like there is more than one way to make a meatloaf. But using physical force, coercive methods, and a "its my way or the highway" attitude often doesnt get you as far as teaching an animal what you want in a way they understand. By taking a "I hold myself accountable" friendly, understanding and "have patience" approach, you can not only teach your dog the behavior you want, but you teach it in such a way they end up thinking for themselves, wanting to make the better choice because it:

1. Works for them 
2. They develop positive associations with whatever is happening at the time 
3. Theyre not afraid of being hurt or getting in trouble! 
   

I came across this great study on how Aggression Begets Aggression in our pet dogs from the Applied Animal Behavior Science completed by Herron, Shofer and Reisner. They talk about the use of these popularized dog training methods and how they often lead to an increase of the behavioral issue. Same as humans being raised in a hostile violent environment often end up behaving the same way ~ violence begets violence. 

Thank goodness for those who take the time to study and publish this wonderful doggy data! THERES a television show Id watch! Hmm, how about it Science Channel??? 

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Dogs respond to training in the same way

08.37 in Dog, dogs, in, respond, same, the, to, training, way

All types of dogs respond to training in the same way. Once you get a better understanding of how a dog thinks, you will be more efficient in training yours. If someone doesnt understand this mindset, he or she can gain some knowledge by reading this article.

Keeping your dog active is an important part of successful dog training and is also good for their health. Dogs are not made to sit around. Dogs need to run around and do activities with their owners to be at their best. Try enrolling in an agility course, going for a run, or practicing Frisbee skills with your dog. Do not let your dog get bored, but keep it moving as much as you can.



 Training should be done when the dog is young. Much like human children, puppies learn faster than adult dogs. When you begin appropriate training early, it will be easier for your dog to grow up knowing the correct way to behave.

 If a dog is experiencing separation anxiety, you need to increase its base of social support. The dog needs to have other people around to get rid of its fixation with you.

 Challenge your dog frequently. While you may know your dog hasnt forgotten anything, try little tests to ensure he remembers all the commands hes learned up to that point.

 Dogs should never be tied up close to each other. This is due to the fact that they could become tangled in each others cords and end up injuring themselves when trying to get free. It can even be fatal if you tie a large dog up with a small dog, and the large dog ends up getting a chain wrapped around the small dogs neck.

 When dogs bite, it is usually from fear. This happens when a dog feels frightened, threatened, and trapped. Train your dog with praise and discipline, not physical force. The dog could get frightened and bite you. Dogs have a pack mentality, and naturally want to be lead.

 If you want a dog that is well-behaved, assure that everyone who interacts with the dog gives it the same treatment as you do. The most favorable results stem from keeping all of your dogs training consistent. Every person must have the same approach so that your dog will know what behavior is expected of him.

 Try using a clicker to help enforce good behavior. In order to begin, simply create a happy mental link between the clickers sound and something the dog enjoys. Attempt to click and treat immediately and do this several times for a few days. Soon, your dog will understand that the noise means "great", making the clicker to a tool that can shape desirable behavior.

 If at all possible, dog training should really begin as a puppy. Older dogs are trainable, but young dogs are more responsive to the lessons from training. Teaching your dog good behavior from a young age is great way to help it grow as a pet that becomes respectful.

 Use the dogs name as much as you can to make sure it pays attention. Make sure to use the dogs name constantly when you first have him, so he can make the connection with his name and paying attention. Put some thought into your dogs name, and choose one that isnt too long and that isnt too similar to other common words.

 To help you train your dog you should know what kinds of foods your dog likes to eat. If you know which treats really get your pet excited, you will find that he or she is willing to work harder. Pay attention to what treats your dog responds the best to.

 Dogs learn quickest through repetition and positive reinforcement. You need to make sure your dog understands what the expected behavior is, be consistent in your expectations and practice the behaviors daily. This is how a dog will learn to perform a trick. Show your pet the right way through rewards and repetition.

 It is crucial that everyone who interacts with your dog uses the exact same command phrases as you do. If you use one command phrase and your family uses another then your dog may get confused. By having every single family member use the same commands, better success will be achieved for training your dog.

 Triggers that tend to instigate inappropriate behavior in your dog can be diverted by redirecting his attention. For example, if it is difficult for your dog to be around other animals, you should distract him with praise and entertainment in order to keep him preoccupied when you walk past animals during your walks. By doing this, he will start to see that good things can happen even when he sees that stimuli.

 Teach everyone in your family to use the same commands to train your dog. If you mix up commands, like one family member saying "up" when another says "jump," the dog will have a more difficult time figuring out what you want. If everyone is consistent about the same words, it will be easier to train your pet.

 Dogs need routine, so feed your dog at the same time every day. This also helps with training. This will help you better understand when your dog needs to go outside, so he doesnt go on the carpet and ruin it. When a dog has a schedule, they also learn the valuable skill of "holding it" until you take him for his next scheduled trip outside.

 Use your dogs name often to ensure you have its attention. Use it constantly in the first few weeks that you have your dog: your puppy should associate this sound with paying attention to you. Choose a shorter name that can stand out from other terms.

 Use a phrase on your puppy to house train him. When you take your dog out, repeat this command. This will help him form an association between being taken outside and doing his business.

 The best time to start training a dog is when its a puppy. While it isnt essential, a young dog will be easier to train. If you start training your dog when he is young, he will be almost as well-behaved as a child.

 Always use your dogs name when you need his attention. To have some good control over your dog, a solid response is crucial. Call them to you at least ten times a day. Try to avoid punishing your dog when it comes to you after you call out its name while using this technique.

 It is important for dog owners to realize that training no longer has to be a battle. With patience and a little research, you can train your dog. Dogs can rise to the occasion and thrive with training from their owner.

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House Training Issues why do our dogs use the inside of our homes to eliminate

17.49 in do, Dog, dogs, eliminate, homes, house, inside, issues, of, our, the, to, training, use, why

Poncho and I have both been receiving questions regarding dogs - both puppy and adult- and house-training issues. Poncho answered one question more in-depth for our Noozhawk column, but I thought Id address it myself.

As we all know, or youll soon learn, dogs arent known to generalize behaviors we want - this includes "knowing" the proper place to go potty. Sure, theyve learned where to go where they live, but often times when you take them to a new location, they need to be re-taught. And, sometimes you need to re-teach those skills in even where they live. 

House-training basics should be instilled whenever a dog goes to a new place. Meaning, take the dog where you want him or her to eliminate, wait until they do just that, then reward them - using a yummy treat, petting, praise, and allowing them either freedom off the leash or getting to go inside the house/building etc... With consistency, the dog will learn that the trend of going outside is the better choice.

I have my students use this approach whenever they bring their dog to my Inquisitive Canine studio for classes or socials. Their dog is to go potty outside, and the reward is a treat and getting to come in for class. The first couple of times take a little longer (this is why I ask folks to arrive early), but once the dog "gets it", theyre more likely to get their business done so they can come in for class. Its nice to see pooches that excited about going to school.

One other topic Ill mention regarding house-training is "texture" or "substrate" of the type of surface where a dog will usually eliminate. If theyre used to a specific surface, then it changes, they might be "confused" and not "go potty" immediately. Take for instance wet grass vs dry. Its been raining out here (finally), so getting dogs out into the rain to potty may be a whole new experience for them - you might need to get out the treats, leash (to manage them from wandering off exploring other things) and take them outside yourself. Using some of your basic house-training techniques will help set them up for success - and help prevent you having to clean up.

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Help My Dogs Chewing

05.12 in chewing, Dog, dogs, help, my

Help My Dogs Chewing!


Chewing is essential for maintaining the health of your dogs teeth, jaws, and gums. Puppies especially have a strong need to chew to relieve the irritation and inflammation of teething. Dogs chew to relieve anxiety and boredom, as well as for entertainment. Your dog’s jaws are his tools for carrying objects and for investigating his surroundings. Essentially, a dog’s approach to all items in his environment is “Can I chew it?”


Chewing is Normal, Natural, and Necessary 

Dogs generally sleep at night and in the middle of the day. However, chewing is your dog’s primary form of entertainment during his morning and late afternoon activity peaks. After all, there are only so many things your dog can do when left at home alone. He can hardly read a novel, telephone friends, or watch the soaps! Indeed, most chewing sprees stem from your dogs relentless quest for some form of occupational therapy to pass the time of day when left at home alone or un-monitored.


Chewing is a perfectly normal, natural, and necessary canine behavior. Prevention and treatment of destructive chewing focus on management and education—to prevent your dog from chewing inappropriate items and to redirect your dogs natural chewing-urge to appropriate, acceptable, and resilient chew toys.


Prevent Destructive Chewing

When leaving home, confine your puppy or dog to a long-term confinement area, such as a single room or puppy play pen or crate —your puppy’s playroom—with a comfortable bed, a bowl of water, a doggy toilet (if not yet housetrained), and nothing to chew but half a dozen freshly-stuffed chewtoys. Housetrained adult dogs may be confined (with their chewtoys) to a dog crate. Your dog will happily settle down and entertain himself with his chewtoys as soon as you leave in the morning, and later he will be more inclined to search for chewtoys when he wakes up in anticipation of your afternoon return. This is important since most chewing activity occurs right after you leave home and right before you return. When you return, instruct your dog to fetch his chewtoys so you can extricate any liver or treats which he could not get out and give them to him. 


When you are home but cannot watch your puppy carefully, confine your puppy to her doggy den (crate) with nothing but a freshly-stuffed chewtoy for entertainment. Every hour on the hour (or at longer intervals with housetrained adult dogs), take your puppydog to her doggy toilet (see Housetraining), and if she goes, praise her and play some chewtoy games with her before putting her back in her crate with a freshly stuffed chewtoy.

The purpose of confinement is to prevent your dog from chewing inappropriate items around the house and to maximize the likelihood your dog will develop a chewtoy habit. If you can watch your dog carefully he or she does not need to be crated, if you need to answer the phone, have a shower etc be sure to put your puppy back in his/her doggy den. 

Redirect Chewing to Chewtoys

The confinement schedule described above optimizes self-training; your dog will train herself to chew chewtoys. In fact your dog will soon become a chewtoyaholic. With a good chewtoy habit, your puppy will no longer want to destroy carpets, curtains, couches, clothes, chair legs, computer disks, childrens toys, or electrical cords. Your dog will be less likely to develop into a recreational barker. And also, your dog will happily settle down calmly and quietly and will no longer be bored or anxious when left alone.


You must also actively train your dog to want to chew chewtoys.
Offer praise and maybe a liver treat every time you notice your dog chewing chewtoys. Do not take chew toy chewing for granted. Let your dog know that you strongly approve of her newly acquired, appropriate, and acceptable hobby. Play chewtoy games with your dog, such as fetch, search, and tug-of-war.


Chewtoys should be indestructible and nonconsumable. Consumption of non-food items is decidedly dangerous for your dogs health. Also, destruction of chewtoys necessitates their regular replacement, which can be expensive. However, compared with the cost of reupholstering just one couch, £50 worth of chewtoys seems a pretty wise investment.


Kongs, Tuff Toys, Biscuit Balls, Big Kahuna footballs, and sterilized long-bones are by far the best chewtoys. They are made of natural products, are hollow, and may be stuffed with food to entice your dog to chew them exclusively. To prevent your dog from porking out, ensure that you only stuff chewtoys with part of your dogs daily diet (kibble or raw food) with a few nuggets of really yummy treats for him to be surprised by. Firmly squish a piece of liver in the small hole in the Kong, fill the rest of the cavity with moistened kibble and a few yummy treats, and then put the Kongs in the freezer. Voila, Kongsicles! As the kibble thaws, some falls out easily to reinforce your dog as soon as she shows interest. Other bits of kibble come out only after your dog has worried at the Kong for several minutes, thus reinforcing your dogs chewing over time. The liver is the best part. Your dog may smell the liver, see the liver, (and maybe even talk to the liver), but she cannot get it out. And so your dog will continue to gnaw contentedly at the Kong until she falls asleep.
Until your dog is fully chewtoy-trained, do not feed her from a bowl. Instead, feed all kibble, canned food, and raw diets from chewtoys, or handfeed meals as rewards when you notice your dog is chewing a chew toy. 


Here is a great video on stuffing Kongs: 

Here is my video on being prepared for puppies, bored teenage dogs and adult chewers:

To learn more, read Doctor Dunbars Good Little Dog Book and our Chewing booklet, available on-line from www.amazon.com.  Reprinted by www.dogstardaily.com with permission of Dr. Ian Dunbar and James & Kenneth Publishers, behavior blueprint by Dr. Ian Dunbar

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Introducing Dogs and Babies Part One

00.03 in and, babies, Dog, dogs, introducing, one, part

My wonderful friend, Kathy Nolasco, is getting ready to welcome her first child into the world.  Well, her first human child that is.  Kathy is also the proud parent of a beautiful German Shepherd Dog named Linda.  Which is what prompted Kathy to send me a message the other day, the gist of which was "How do we introduce our dog to the baby?"

Its a question I get a lot, at least from those who are expecting, or know someone who is.  So I thought Id share my answer with everyone.

A little background first.  Kathy and her husband Gerson have a one-year-old female German Shepherd, Linda, from the Dominican Republic (a Dominican Shepherd I tease her).  They are also expecting a baby boy in about 20 days, should he cooperate with his due date.  Kathy has made arrangements for Linda to stay with her parents while she is in the hospital after the baby is born, and they are already planning on bringing baby blankets to Linda so she can smell the baby before she meets him. 

But Lindas already nervous, and the baby hasnt even been born yet.  According to Kathy, Linda is scared of the new baby things in the house, especially the stroller and the swing.  So this is where the training needs to start.  Ill tackle part one - fear of the stroller and swing - in this post, and part two - introducing Linda to the baby - in a later post.

The first rule of training Linda to accept the new baby should be "100% positive."  Because we want the relationship between dog and baby to be a positive one, the training should always be positive too.  We dont want Linda to make any associations between bad things and the new baby.

To teach Linda to accept the baby stroller and swing, get some really yummy treats (PureBites, Natural Balance Rolled Dog Food, Charlee Bears, or Wellness Wellbites).  If she is clicker trained, grab the clicker, but if not, Kathy can tell her "yes" every time she would get a click (for more on clicker training basics see Karen Pryors website, clickertraining.com. Start out with either the stroller or the baby swing (tackle one before the other - the second time around will be easier). 

Lets say Kathy picks the baby swing.  Have the swing set up, but not activated.  Bring Linda into the room where the swing is, and the instant she looks at (or near) the swing, click (or say "yes!") and give her a treat.  Stand in such a way that Linda needs to look back to get her treat, away from the swing.  When she looks at the swing again, click and treat.  Repeat the exercise a couple more times, then take a big step towards the swing.  Kathy should click and treat for Linda looking at the swing, again, the instant they move towards it.  Do another 3 or 4 rounds, then move closer and closer.  Eventually they should be able to stand right next to the swing.

When Kathy is beside the swing, she should reward Linda for looking at the swing once or twice, but then hold off and see if shell voluntarily lean towards it, sniff at it or even touch her nose to it.  If she does, definitely click and treat!  Work on getting as much interaction as possible, without resorting to bribing or luring (an example of that would be putting the treat on the swing).  Be patient - it will pay off in many ways!

The first time Kathy moves Linda towards the swing the swing should be turned off, not moving at all.  Once Linda masters the exercise with the swing off, start over with the swing turned on low - bring Linda into the room and click and treat the instant she looks at the swing.  Continue progressing until there are no issues with the swing.  Then its time to move onto the stroller.

If Linda gets nervous at any point, things have gone a little too fast.  Keep things light and fun.  There dont need to be any commands, and dont force her at any point. This exercise is so effective because Linda is in control - something that goes a long way towards building confidence and eliminating fear.  By rewarding her every time she looks at the baby swing shell start to have a positive association with the swing.

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Puppies to Puppy Dogs

01.25 in Dog, dogs, for, older, puppies, puppy, tips, to, training

Arent our Puppies

Growi----ng

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now that our little pets have grown

we need for them to become part of

our family. Allowing them to welcome

us home after a long day at the office

or school. Making a fuss of them and

letting them know you to are happy to

see them.

As a general rule happy contented dogs

are better behaved, and are more likely

to do as they are told, than those of less

fortunate curcumstances. So join in your

young dogs enthusiasium, accept its

welcoming as you enter your home.

 

 

 

 

 

Now Our Puppy Dogs

are part  of the Family

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Therapy dogs and reading

00.36 in and, Dog, dogs, reading, therapy

Lets give a BIG shout-out to the Ventura County H.P. Wright Library! Why? Because of their "Paws for Reading" program. How wonderful it was to find out they offer such a delightful program to the children of our community - and to the many Canine Good Citizens and their humans too. Improving reading skills, as well as building self-confidence (for both the children and the dogs, right?) Plus, its just downright fun! 

For additional information on the library program, or to schedule an appointment contact Star Soto, Childrens Librarian. For more information on how your dog can become a Canine Good Citizen you can contact me. 

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Dogs Figuring Out What Works Best The Surf is the Word

00.33 in best, Dog, dogs, figuring, is, out, surf, the, what, word, works

Check out this great video of Buddy the Surf Dog. Sure his dad Bruce helped teach him - but Buddy is out there figuring out how to "duck dive" just by shifting his weight back and forth on the board. Hes also determined where to position himself for "dropping in" on the wave, and avoiding running humans over. Just amazing. Im also proud to say he is my neighbor!

Lets apply Skinners Operant Condition Quadrant to this surfing scenario: 

• Positive Reinforcement: going to the beach, catching waves, playing in the sand, hangin with his friends.
• Negative Punishment: having to go home :-( 
• Positive Punishment: getting caught in the impact zone! (getting slammed by a wave)
• Negative Reinforcement: relief of being slammed by a wave...

This just goes to show you animals do what works. Yes, dad has to get Buddy to the beach - but Buddy quickly figured out what "works" and what doesnt work. It also shows you where training and practice can get you. 

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Dogs and Cats Riding in Cars Please Think Safety First!

17.19 in and, cars, cats, Dog, dogs, first, in, please, riding, safety, think

Definition of: safety |?s?ft?|noun
1) the condition of being protected from or unlikely to cause danger, risk, or injury.

I remember the first auto-restraint system I was exposed to during my youth... It was my mothers arm hurling across my chest at lightening speed pressing me back towards my seat while she yelled “hold on!” Yep, those were the good ol’ days - no seat-belt laws, no fancy car seats for us kids - just fun times bouncy around playing with the radio, reaching behind or climbing over the seat, doing whatever we wanted to do without a care in the world... Well, that all changed, didn’t it? Thank goodness... It’s just a shame we as a society had to learn the hard way - by too many statistics.

As a certified professional dog trainer, and dog mom to Poncho the dog I continue to be dumbfounded, shocked, and completely confused at the sight of seeing pet guardians traveling in cars with their dogs (and cats) riding in the car, jumping around aimlessly as I did as a child. Not that Im perfect mind you, or want to brag, but Ive been using car-safety restraints since we first brought Poncho home from the shelter. It just made sense. I also make it a point to go over this topic with the students in my dog training classes and private dog training clients. (BTW, dog harnesses and seat-belts are the only non-training items I sell at the Inquisitive Canine studio. This picture shows Poncho riding in his car seat, harnessed in. He is able to sit up and move around easily, but only within the area of his seat. (Hes napping after a romp at the beach.)

Is it me or is history repeating itself??? Do we need more horrific statistics to make some changes happen? Come on folks, our dogs (and cats) don’t live in some magical plastic safety bubble! Right? Sure, I don’t blame pet guardians for wanting to show their dogs or cats a good time... But please, ask yourself these questions the next time you ride with your beloved furry friend:

• “Would this be safe for a human?
• Would I do this with a human child?”

If you have answered “no” to either or both, then it’s probably not safe for a non-human animal either.

Let’s take a look at what could happen under the current circumstances:

• If air bags go off, brakes get slammed on, person driving hits something, or another cars hit them - there are problems! Animals being catapulted into oblivion, airbags exploding out and breaking necks - Hello?!!! There is a reason why human children aren’t allowed - by law - to ride in seats where there are airbags until they are a specific weight &/or age, right? Does the transportation department do this for fun or because they want to save lives? Well, what about the lives of our pets? They’re not extraterrestrial beings that can somehow avoid harm.
• They don’t think like us humans. Our pets don’t have - aren’t born with nor develop - the section of brain that covers “common sense” - (heck we humans are supposed to have it, and how many of us still fail to use it sometimes?) - Our pets don’t have the mental capability to request their safety be addressed, so it’s up to us to take this responsibility seriously...

I would venture to guess that most pet parents would want to keep their loved ones safe while still being comfortable. I know there are some folks using crates or backseat barriers to enclose their pets while driving. (I will too under certain circumstances, however I do not like to - I am a hypocrite is this respect). I ask, what happens if you should need to slam on the brakes? The dog or cat still hits the inside of the crate or barrier at whatever speed you were going... Bruising, breaking, or dislocating body parts. Doesn’t sound too safe, does it? How about hanging out the window? Uh, hello? They could fall out, get scared by a noise and jump out, something could slam into them, or fly into their eye. They can also trigger the automatic window button and get their head caught. Am I really painting a safe picture here?

Is there a perfect solution? IMHO “no”, not yet... But there are some good choices:

• Car-seats for smaller dogs and cats like the one Poncho has, and for larger dogs harnesses where seat-belts can slip through and attach or where the attachment strap connects directly into the car connection. And if I’m not mistaken, there are automobile manufactures that have added “pet features” to some of their cars....(if I’m wrong, then I say its a shame...) With these proper restraint systems dogs and cats still get some freedom, but are kept safe while enjoying the breeze and scenery.

I admit, I enjoyed riding in my moms lap too...again, the good ol’ days...hey some of my best driving skills were formed when I was riding in our Buick, sitting in her lap, helping her steer... No seat-belts, but lots of giggles...and luck because I’m still here today, getting to write about it and hopefully encouraging others to keep their pets safe while out and about...

Too bad our pets havent figured out how to drive - it would free up owners to use cell phones safely, plus they could be official designated drivers...guess I should work on that training plan. Happy motoring! Some day I’ll tell you about dad letting me shift gears from the passenger seat.

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Body Language of Fear in Dogs

04.36 in body, Dog, dogs, fear, in, language, of

This poster is a resource from Dr. Sophia Yins website www.drsophiayin.com

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Do You Want your Puppy here

15.43 in do, Dog, dogs, here, puppies, puppy, to, want, you, your

Ccan you imagine how your children would feel seeing both themselves and their puppies on-line. Well you can. Just send me their photoes and I will add them to this site for the whole world to see. Post them to me Denis Kermode at denis@tarotservices.com  and I will post them on this blog giving full credits. Why not let me know a little about your puppy as well perhaps the problems you are having or just the joy it is bringing into your life. This is why we are here, to share the moments a new puppy brings us.

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Dressing Dogs Up Borderline animal abuse Not if you make it fun!

23.08 in abuse, animal, borderline, Dog, dogs, dressing, fun, if, it, make, not, up, you

I just read a question posted to a reporter news feed about wanting opinions from animal professionals on the topic of dressing dogs up... Okay, so this just happened to fall on the birthday of my beautiful, handsome, lovely, love of my life, baby boy Poncho! Of ALL days! Why today??? Today is one of those days Im going wear my "dog mom" hat - not my professional certified pet dog trainer, dog behavior counselor hat! 

Whats my opinion? Hmm, my usual m.o. is to change up his collar...I admit, Poncho the dog has quite a few to choose from. I switch his license and ID tag to whichever he ends up wearing. As I tell my dog training class and private dog training clients, one key element in being a responsible pet owner: "Your dogs collar is similar to our wallet. Its used for carrying ID and license. Other than that it can be used for a fashion statement, personality statement, or to match your outfit." It shouldnt be used for "training" (like those nasty aversive training methods using collar correction). 

As for other "outfits"? Yes, Poncho has various sweaters, t-shirts, a couple of vests/jackets... and the ever popular lobster costume he wears at Halloween, the hawaiian lei I have him wear many times throughout the year...we do live in Ventura, which is a beach town. Besides the annual Halloween event, all of his clothes are more about function...if its cold out. Oops, wait a minute...some of his t-shirts are more about statements I want to make...like when he goes to races with me. Poncho is one of my running partners, and he likes to brag about that. 

This specific reporter asked the question: "Other than essential winter coats, do dogs generally hate having to wear people clothes, and is it cruel to dress dogs up?"

My answer to that: I have no idea what theyre thinking. Therefore Im not sure if they hate it or not. I know that when I dress Poncho in clothing that hes not used to, like his fuzzy green birthday hat, or lobster costume, I head down the "creating pleasant associations" path, and feed him little bits of yummy high-value treats while hes wearing them. This way, hell learn to love the outfits! Classical conditioning is a wonderful thing! 

As for the latter part of the question, "Is it cruel?" That all depends upon the motivation of whomever is dressing the dog up. If the person is intending to hurt, humiliate (intentionally), bully, coerce, or intimidate the dog in question, then "yes" I do think its cruel. If the person is doing it to have fun, provide love, attention, and steak for their dog, then why not? Just like when my parents dressed me in striped pants and paisley shirts - they werent cruel, it was the 70s. 

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Taking Your Dogs Meal on the Road is a Win Win For All

22.57 in a, all, Dog, dogs, for, is, meal, on, road, taking, the, win, your

Ive been taking Poncho out to Kimball Park and the Ventura State Beach a lot lately, training him to run for longer periods of time while on leash... Yes, running for a sustained period of time is new for Poncho the dog... no "marking or sniffing", just exercise... 

Trust me, being a dog trainer I know I need to fulfill Ponchos dogginess, Im not a tyrant. I make sure I take him on separate outings for sniffing, marking, chasing things, and rolling in dead stinky stuff etc... But for the running/exercise part, its all about training those slow-twitch fibers...keeping his heart-rate up, and getting his yah-yahs out so hell want to relax at home, and have better concentration for when he sits at his computer and blogs. 

What I have found to be quite unsettling is that it seems Im the only doggy guardian out there using any kind of food rewards for rewarding those behaviors I want! For a dog, I would think going outside into the big beautiful world is like going to Disneyland! And if I want to keep Poncho motivated to run with this old slowpoke, vs romping and playing like a dog...then Im more than happy to pull out the leftover lunch meat. Not tons of it mind you, I dont want him to get sick,  just little nibbles every once in a while, and only for the action of "running". 

I witness all other dogs either be yelled at, choked, or completely ignored by their guardians - usually because theyre into their own world - however, their dog is straining to get to us...just to say *hi*. How horrible this must be for the other dogs. And I must say, I think this behavior on the humans part is hypocritical. We brings snacks for ourselves and/or for the kids. We stop at coffee places, fast food places etc...for our own "rewards", but yet being stingy with our dogs is a good thing. Well, I think not. 

So, I ask you, if youre spending time taking your dog out for walkies, try this experiment: bring some of their meal with you on the road, instead of giving it away for free out of a bowl. They might enjoy walkies more, and you might get those behaviors you want! Oh, and if youre already doing that, then you deserve a treat too! 

If you want to learn more about walking or running your dog with simple successful techniques, you might want to join in on one of my classes at the inquisitive canine studio or Ventura College...its rewarding for everyone. 

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Introducing Dogs and Babies Part Two

14.53 in and, babies, Dog, dogs, introducing, part, two

Welcome to the world, Alex Nolasco!  Your mom and dad wanted some tips for introducing your dog, Linda, to you for the first time.  They want your meeting to be peaceful, so here are some things they can try:

• Dont feel the need to introduce Linda and Alex the instant Linda comes back to the house.  Let Linda get used to being home, let her smell and hear baby Alex crying and making all the strange noises a little person makes.  Allowing Linda time to take that in before the introduction will make things less stressful and should make the initial meeting of baby and dog less of a "big deal" for your dog.
• Practice "leave it" in as many different situations as you can.  Work on having Linda leave toys, food, trash, sticks, clothes - anything you can pick up and show her, anything she might possibly want.  Work on having Linda "leave it" in all different rooms of the house, outside in the back yard, standing in the kitchen, running down the hall - anywhere and anyway you can imagine.
• Keep the dog & baby times short and sweet.  When you do introduce Linda and Alex, separate them after a minute or less.  The same goes for the next time they meet, and the time after that.  When you do separate them, always take Linda away from the baby, not baby away from Linda.  This is especially important if Linda has gotten overly excited or pushy, or if she is not reacting well.
• Practice "Off," the command that means "4 On The Floor," or dont jump up on anything (people, couches, counters, etc.).  Some people tell their dogs "down" for this, but if you use the command "down" to mean "lie down," then there should be a separate command for not jumping up.
• Practice "Down Stay."  Focus on improving Lindas ability to stay in a down position with greater distance, duration and distractions.  This will be very useful as baby Alex grows, and even now.  Having a dog that you can "park" on a dog bed and know shell stay put is a great convenience!  Keep it fun and successful for her though, "down stay" can be a boring and frustrating exercise for a dog unless it is taught slowly and with a lot of patience and praise.
• Consider teaching Linda to stay off the couches and beds, if you havent already.  Boundaries are important to a dog, and knowing that she wont accidentally jump directly onto a sleeping baby that she didnt see is good piece of mind.
• Make sure Linda gets plenty of exercise, mental stimulation and positive training.  Take moments during the day to spend a few minutes throwing the ball, practicing some obedience training, giving her a stuffed Kong, or taking her for a leisurely "sniff all you want to" walk.  This will help keep her in a good frame of mind, and reduce some of the stress she will feel from all the changes at home.  Daddy, this is a good place for you to be involved!
• Dont allow Linda to pick up or play with any of baby Alexs toys, clothes, pacifiers or any other baby things.  Dog toys are for the dog, everything else is for the people.  Its about respect, safety and consistency.
• Practice "Out."  This command means leave the room or the area.  Its pretty useful if your dog is encroaching on your space, begging, or just getting in the way.  It sounds kind of rude, but if she is trained to it well Linda wont be offended, and with a new baby there are just some times that having a dog under your feet is not what you want.

Enjoy your puppy baby Alex!  I hope that you have many wonderful years of a boy and his dog - its a magical bond that I am excited for you to have.

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Shaping Your Dogs Behavior Stop Look Listen and Maybe Change Your Own Behavior First

22.48 in and, behavior, change, Dog, dogs, first, listen, look, maybe, own, shaping, stop, your

When it comes to getting our dogs to change their behavior, sometimes its best to change our own behavior first. As a certified professional dog trainer, and loving dog mom to Poncho the dog, one element of communication that Ive learned is more important than many others is the art of listening. And with our pet dogs, listening also means observing since body language is a dogs first language.

One of our latest Dear Inquisitive Canine advice questions came from a woman who mentioned her dog Colby developed behavior issues after a family vacation. To read the entire column, you can click on the Noozhawk Dog Behavior Advice Column link. In addition to the information in the advice column Id also like to address two other topics of canine body language and what they might be communicating.

• Dog Communication and Warning Signals: Our beloved canines have a wonderful way of communicating with body language. It’s their first language and one us humans need to pay better attention to. There’s an old joke: “What do you say to a growling dog?” Answer: “Thank you!” They’ve just told you they aren’t happy about something.
• Growling Leading to Biting: The “I’m upset” escalation scale for dogs is: freeze-growl-snarl-snap-bite, bite harder, bite even harder - bite harder again… Dogs will continue to progress up this ladder if 1) they feel they are being ignored (“No one is listening to me! Next time I better speak up louder by biting!”), and 2) What they are “saying” is being punished out (“The last time I told my humans I was upset by snapping at them I got in trouble. I guess I’ll have to “‘speak up” louder the next time, which means I’ll need to bite! Maybe then they’ll listen.”)

Remember my dear human (and maybe canine) friends out there: the art of being a good communicator is not just talking - its also about listening, or in the case of listening to our dogs, the art of good observational skills.

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Crazy Dogs Curing Jumping Up and Hyperactivity

18.12 in and, crazy, curing, Dog, dogs, hyperactivity, jumping, up

Puppies are naturally noisy and hyperactive. 
Puppies are exuberant when greeting, playing, and when expressing friendliness and appeasement. 


However, adult dogs are noisy and hyperactive because they are untrained and have unintentionally been encouraged to act that way. For example, eagerly jumping puppies are petted by people, who later get angry when the dog jumps up as an adult. The dogs only crime? It grew!


Sadly, adult dogs receive considerable abuse for expressing their enthusiasm and exuberance. For example, "The Trainers from the Dark Side" recommend teaching a dog not to jump up by shouting at the dog; squirting him in the face with water or lemon juice; swatting him on the nose with a rolled-up newspaper; yanking on the dogs leash; hanging the dog by his choke-collar; squeezing the dogs front paws; treading on his hind paws; kneeing the dog in the chest; or flipping the dog over backwards. Surely these methods are a bit cruel for a dog thats just trying to say hello. Indeed, in the words of Confucius, "There is no need to use an axe to remove a fly from the forehead of a friend." Why not just teach dogs to sit when greeting people?

Sit and Settle Down

Train your puppy or dog to come, sit, and lie down. Simple instructions such as "Sit" and "Lie down" are extremely effective solutions for nearly all doggy activity problems. Rather than telling the pup "No, no, no!" and "NO!" for everything she does that annoys you, simply ask her to lie down, and then praise and reward her for doing so. If she lies down obediently, she cannot run around the living room, chase her tail, chase the cat, hump the cat, jump on the furniture, jump up and down in the car, run out the front door, or chase and jump on children. Lying down and most behavior problems are mutually exclusive; your dog cannot lie down and misbehave at the same time. Take the initiative and direct your puppys behavior by teaching her to lie down on request.


Rather than feeding your puppy from a bowl, weigh out his kibble in the morning and use individual pieces as lures and rewards during oodles of five-second training interludes throughout the day. Practice in every room of the house, in the car (while stationary), and on walks. Pause every 25 yards and instruct your puppy to perform a series of body positions: for example, sit- down-sit-stand-down-stand. Within just a couple of days youll have a totally different dog.

Be smart. Be kind. Teach your puppy (or adult dog) to settle down and shush when requested and how to greet people in a mannerly fashion. Both dog noise and exuberance may be controlled and channeled into appropriate outlets.

Simple reward training methods work wonders with out-of-control adolescent and adult dogs. Hold a piece of kibble in your hand but dont give it to your dog. Stand perfectly still and give no instructions; simply watch to see what your dog does. Characteristically, the dog will run through his entire behavior repertoire. Your dog will wiggle, waggle, circle, twirl, jump-up, lick, paw, back-up, and bark...but eventually he will sit or lie down. Praise him and offer the piece of kibble as soon as he sits (or lies down—your choice). Then take a gigantic step (to reactivate Rover), and stand still with another piece of kibble in your hand. Repeat the above sequence until Rover sits immediately after you take each step and then begin to progressively increase the delay before offering the kibble. Maybe count out the seconds in "good dogs"—"Good dog one, good dog two, good dog three, etc." If Rover breaks his sit while you are counting, simple turn your back on him, take a three-second timeout, and repeat the sequence again. In no time at all you will be able to count out 20 "good dogs" as Rover sits and stays calmly, looking up at you expectantly.

Move from room to room repeating this exercise. When walking Rover, stand still every 25 yards and wait for him to sit, then praise him and continue the walk. After handfeeding your dog just one meal in this fashion indoors and on one long walk with sits every 25-yards, youll have a calmer and much more attentive dog.

Jumping Up

Jumping up deserves a special mention because it is the cause of so much frustration and abuse. Right from the outset, teach your puppy to sit when greeting people. Sitting is the obvious theoretical solution because a dog cannot sit and jump up at the same time. However, it may initially be difficult to teach your dog to sit when greeting people because he is so excited that he doesnt hear what you say. Consequently, you will need to troubleshoot his training.

First practice sits (as described above) in locations where your dog normally greets people, e.g., on-leash outdoors, and especially indoors by the front door. Then invite over ten friends for a dog training party. Today your dogs dinner will be handfed by guests at the front door and by friends on a walk. After eventually getting your dog to sit to greet the first guest, praise your dog and have the guest offer a piece of kibble. Then ask the guest to leave and ring the doorbell again. In fact, repeat front-door greetings until your dog greets the first guest in a mannerly fashion three times in a row. Then repeat the process with the other nine guests. In one training party you will probably practice over a hundred front-door greetings. Then ask your all your guests to leave one at a time and walk round the block. Put your dog on leash and walk around the block in the opposite direction. As you approach each person, instruct your dog to sit. Praise him when he does so and have the person offer a couple of pieces of kibble. After five laps, you will have practiced 50 sidewalk greetings. Now your dog will be ready to sit to greet bona fide guests at home and strangers on the street.

Put Doggy Enthusiasm and Activity on Cue

To be fair to your dog, make sure that she has ample opportunity to let off steam in an acceptable fashion. Sign up for flyball and agility classes. Play fetch with tennis balls and Frisbees and do yo-yo recalls (back and forth between two people) in the park. Formalize "crazy time"—train your dog to jump for bubbles, or play "tag" and chase your dog around the house. And maybe train your dog that it is acceptable to jump up on cue—to give you a welcome-home hug.

To learn more, read Doctor Dunbars Good Little Dog Book and our HyperDog booklet, available on-line from www.amazon.com.  Reprinted by www.dogstardaily.com with permission of Dr. Ian Dunbar and James & Kenneth Publishers, behavior blueprint by Dr. Ian Dunbar

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