WHO do you really want to blame

15.54 in blame, do, Dog, really, to, want, who, you

I was in one of my favorite stores yesterday...waiting in line to buy groceries for din-din, and couldnt help overhearing the conversation between one of the cashiers and a customer. As soon as I heard the words "my dog" my ears perked up...Like any predator, my sense of hearing improved once I acknowledged my "prey" - so to speak... 

I guess the customer was buying lots of doggy treats, because the cashier commented about her own dog, and that she loved her dog etc... but that she (the dog) was "naughty" and in the "dog house".... Yes, this is what caught my attention, blaming the dog for something the human probably did in the first place to set the dog up for "failure"... 

From what I heard, and trust me, I didnt listen very long... once I heard the blame-game I shut my ears and diverted to the luscious chocolate display next to me...plus, I saw a friend there, who happens to be a former student of both my private and Manners class. Anyway, she arrived at the perfect time. We started chatting away, which was a great diversion for me. 

What was being said you ask? I guess the cashier and her boyfriend left a pile of food out on the counter at their home... including a pizza... Well, counter-surfing is a grande game to be played by any animal, especially dogs (and husbands when freshly baked cookies are sitting out)... Not only can dogs jump up on counters easily - or stretch and put their paws up...theyre also quite efficient at using their mouths and paws, pulling items onto the floor to be devoured. Especially when the said item is a freakin pizza!!! YUM! What a HUGE payoff!!! 

So, come on!! Really? Blame the dog? Really? Hmm... I myself applaud the dog for being so resourceful and clever, and for hopefully teaching those humans a lesson about "puppy proofing" their home... I say put the humans in the dog house for being naughty... Oh, and by the way, as much as I hate to admit it, being the professional that I am, its happened to me too! Yep, me, the one who teaches everyone else about dogs... My own dog Poncho taught my husband and myself about puppy proofing out home! Lets just say were much more careful about where we leave food, especially when were preoccupied with each other :-) These animals learned!

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Dog Training and Behavior Terms Defined What do you mean by that

13.43 in and, behavior, by, defined, do, Dog, mean, terms, that, training, what, you

If you know about me, this lil ol certified pet dog trainer of The Inquisitive Canine here in Ventura, then you know I prefer to sit in the "science camp" of dog training. Im usually pretty cautious when throwing around the science jargon, but if youve ever taken my dog training classes, dog training workshops, or have had me consult with you for private dog training, then a few of the behavior specific expressions may have come out. 

The waters can get muddy sometimes. So what Id like to do is define some of the widely used, more popular, dog training language that is currently being heard more frequently, but in laymans terms. Along with the definition, if appropriate, Ill throw in a human analogy as well. I have found that this helps us humans relate better to our pet dogs. 

• Aversive: Anything an animal considers ‘bad’ - anything unpleasant, painful, annoying, uncomfortable. A strong dislike or disinclination; tending to avoid or causing avoidance of a noxious or punishing stimulus. e.g: Shouting, hitting, ignoring, jerking with the leash, squirt bottles, applying pain intentionally, grabbing, restraining, noxious sprays, and electric shock. 

• Behavior: the way in which one acts or conducts oneself. Any action performed that can be observed and measured. e.g: Your dog resting in their bed. 

• Bridge: AKA ‘bridging stimulus’ or ‘marker’ A stimulus (something an animal sees, hears, feels) that pinpoints the exact moment in time an action of a desired behavior was performed - bridging the gap between the time the signal was given and the delivery of a reward is provided. e.g: The ‘click’ of a clicker, the sound of a whistle. 

• Classical Conditioning: AKA: ‘ Respondent Conditioning’, ‘Pavlovian Conditioning’ 

1. A learning process that occurs when two stimuli are repeatedly paired: a response that is at first elicited by the second stimulus is eventually elicited by the first stimulus alone. 
2. Conditioning in which the conditioned stimulus (as the sound of a bell) is paired with and precedes the unconditioned stimulus (as the sight of food) until the conditioned stimulus alone is sufficient to elicit the response (as salivation in a dog) 

• Conditioning: Learning. *Observe your dogs behavior. If their behavior changes, learning is taking place. 

• Consequence: An action or event that occurs after a behavior. It can affect how often that behavior will occur again in the future. 

• Counter-conditioning: Taking a fear-provoking event, which is associated with an unpleasant situation, and changing (countering or reversing) the association to one that predicts something pleasant. Reversal the learned response. Often used in conjunction with desensitization. 

• Cue: A signal which will elicit a specific behavior or reflex. e.g: Saying "sit" or using hand signal for "sit". 

• Desensitization: Process where normal defense reactions elicited by an aversive stimulus, such as shock, are modified by creating pleasant associations with a positive reinforcer. This is achieved by presenting the fear-provoking event (stimulus) at levels low enough not to cause a reaction, but enough for the animal to notice, while pairing this event (stimulus) with something the animal loves causing the feelings to be reversed. Levels of intensity are gradually increased, as long as the animal stays below the fear-provoking level of intensity. Used in conjunction with counter-conditioning. 

• Discrimination: The ability to differentiate between to similar competing stimuli. The ability to perceive differences in various aspects of the environment. 

• Flooding: AKA: Exposure "Response Prevention." An extinction process used to treat anxiety and fear-related disorders. Animal is exposed to specific anxiety producing stimulus at levels high enough until the animal no longer reacts. Intention of this treatment is for animal to relearn coping skills when exposed to stimulus, however this is considered amongst many to be cruel and unethical, and often doesnt work, depending upon the animal, and what the anxiety producing stimulus is. 

• Generalization: The process of comparing events, consequences or objects which have some trait in common and recognizing those commonalities between them. The tendency to respond to a class of stimuli rather than only to the one to which the animal was originally conditioned to. Make for wide general use or application. e.g: Dog can perform the same behavior in any setting when asked to do so without having to relearn.

• Habituation: the diminishing of a physiological or emotional response to a frequently repeated stimulus. The relatively persistent fading of a response as a result of repeated stimulation which is not followed by any specific reinforcement. AKA: Passive Desensitization.

• Instinct: An inborn predisposition to behave in a specific way when appropriately stimulated. Instincts are species specific complex behaviors. They are natural and unconditioned qualities shared by all members of a species. e.g. dogs chasing things, guarding their bones, digging, chewing, jumping up to greet. 

• Learned Helplessness: A condition created by exposure to inescapable aversive events. This can lead to delayed or prevention of learning in subsequent situations in which escape or avoidance is possible. When a human or animal ‘gives up’, and stops trying due to multiple failed attempts at trying to control a situation. e.g. dog sits politely at all times because the alternate might risk "getting in trouble" by owner. 

• Learning: the acquisition of knowledge or skills through experience, practice, or study, or by being taught. The process in which relatively permanent changes in behavior are produced through experience and memories.

• Lure: Something that motivates or is used to motivate a person or animal to do something.

• Motivation: A general term referring to the forces regulating behavior that is undertaken because of instinctual drives, needs, desires, and is directed towards a goal. One factor that can influence whether or not a learned behavior will be performed. Animal needs to be motivated in some way to perform a specific behavior - either from others, or from within. e.g. for dogs: petting, praise, attention, toys, games, tug, food playing with other dogs. 

• Negative punishment: In operant conditioning, the removal of something an animal wants.  e.g. Dog jumps on person to say ‘hello’ - person turns their back and ignores dog.

• Negative reinforcement: In operant conditioning, the removal of something an animal finds unpleasant, as an immediate result of the desired behavior performed. e.g. Pull up on choke collar until dog sits butt on ground, choke collar released. Pinning dog on back until dog relaxes and "submits." In both examples its the release of the choke chain, or allowing the dog to get up after pinning. 

• Operant Conditioning: AKA ‘Instrumental Conditioning’, ‘Skinnerian Conditioning’. The fundamental principle of operant conditioning is: behavior is determined by its consequences. A form of learning in which something the animal finds pleasant or unpleasant is presented or removed, thus altering the rate at which the behavior is performed. 

• Positive Punishment: In operant conditioning, the addition of an aversive stimulus, or something an animal seeks to avoid, that is found within the animals environment, following a behavior, with the intention of decreasing the frequency of that behavior. e.g. dog eliminates on carpet, dog get smacked. Owner pinning dog in order to "take control." 

• Positive Reinforcement: In operant conditioning, an event or stimulus provided following a specific behavior with the intention of increasing the frequency of that behavior. A positive reinforcer is something the animal desires or finds pleasant. e.g. dog sits, get treat for sitting, dog continues to sit because it predict treats. 

• Reinforce: Strengthen or support an existing feeling, idea, or habit. 

• Reinforcer: Anything that increases the frequency of the behavior it immediately follows. 

• Reinforcement: The event which increases the frequency of the behavior it follows. 

• Reward: Anything the dog considers ‘good’- stimulates at least one of the five senses - sight, smell, taste, touch, sound. Anything the dog finds motivating and reinforcing - can be: food, toys, praise, touch, freedom. e.g. belly-rub, rousing game of fetch, comfy bed, something stinky to roll in, kissy-face with family members, liver treat. A return that is obtained upon the successful performance of a task. 

• Reward-based training program: Using anything an animal finds appealing and ‘rewarding’ to elicit, reinforce, or inhibit behaviors. 

• Sensitization: Intensifying of an animals response to stimuli that did not originally produce such strong feelings. 

• Shaping: A method of modifying behavior. The entire process of selectively reinforcing responses in successive steps towards the goal of a desired response. Based on principles of operant conditioning in which an animals behavior is gradually molded to specific desired patterns through the delivery of positive reinforcement at distinct moments. 

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Do you have a hyperactive dog

07.51 in a, do, Dog, have, hyperactive, you

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House Training Issues why do our dogs use the inside of our homes to eliminate

17.49 in do, Dog, dogs, eliminate, homes, house, inside, issues, of, our, the, to, training, use, why

Poncho and I have both been receiving questions regarding dogs - both puppy and adult- and house-training issues. Poncho answered one question more in-depth for our Noozhawk column, but I thought Id address it myself.

As we all know, or youll soon learn, dogs arent known to generalize behaviors we want - this includes "knowing" the proper place to go potty. Sure, theyve learned where to go where they live, but often times when you take them to a new location, they need to be re-taught. And, sometimes you need to re-teach those skills in even where they live. 

House-training basics should be instilled whenever a dog goes to a new place. Meaning, take the dog where you want him or her to eliminate, wait until they do just that, then reward them - using a yummy treat, petting, praise, and allowing them either freedom off the leash or getting to go inside the house/building etc... With consistency, the dog will learn that the trend of going outside is the better choice.

I have my students use this approach whenever they bring their dog to my Inquisitive Canine studio for classes or socials. Their dog is to go potty outside, and the reward is a treat and getting to come in for class. The first couple of times take a little longer (this is why I ask folks to arrive early), but once the dog "gets it", theyre more likely to get their business done so they can come in for class. Its nice to see pooches that excited about going to school.

One other topic Ill mention regarding house-training is "texture" or "substrate" of the type of surface where a dog will usually eliminate. If theyre used to a specific surface, then it changes, they might be "confused" and not "go potty" immediately. Take for instance wet grass vs dry. Its been raining out here (finally), so getting dogs out into the rain to potty may be a whole new experience for them - you might need to get out the treats, leash (to manage them from wandering off exploring other things) and take them outside yourself. Using some of your basic house-training techniques will help set them up for success - and help prevent you having to clean up.

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Food Stuffing Type Dog Toys What the heck do I do with this thing

18.15 in do, Dog, food, heck, i, stuffing, the, thing, this, toys, type, what, with

You may have purchased one of those great interactive food stuffing toys for your dog, right? Maybe one of those red cone-shaped ones from the Kong Company? And you put some of your dogs kibble with a little peanut butter in it, gave it to him or her, and left it at that. But what now? What else can you do with it? OMG theres just SO much! As a matter of fact, I teach an entire class on stuffing food toys, and other types of "enrichment" at my inquisitive canine studio. 

I love feeding my own dog Poncho out of these, and other "interactive" food toys. He enjoys eating his meals out of them as well - I can tell because he goes into his "whirling dervish" mode every time I get one out of the freezer...yes, the freezer - hes at what I call "University Level". Pre-school would be dry kibble topped off with a little wet food. 

The Kong Company is nice enough to supply you with lots of tips and advice on great ways to use your dogs Kong toys. For me, I like coming up with my own "recipes" (okay, I think of them more of concoctions) with anything and everything that is either leftover from me and my hubby, or whatever I find in the fridge that needs to be eaten. 

Because the Kongs are relatively small on the inside, you arent able to put an entire meal in just one. So, like we humans have sets of dishes, I have purchased a few Kongs of the same size and consider them Ponchos "dishes". I might just give him one, along with his other favorite food toy the Tricky Treat Ball. And of course he gets his veggies in his bowl - there are some veggies in his Kong mixture, but most of them end up in his bowl...I think the veggies are the only thing Ill feed him from his bowl. 

Okay, so what all do I put in it? And how do I do it? Simple...for the easiest "recipe" I combine the following ingredients*:

• Kibble (high quality like Solid Gold or Wellness)
• Canned wet food (high quality like Solid Gold or Wellness)
• Leftover veggies: canned pumpkin, zucchini, asparagus, bell peppers, carrots, peas, broccoli, cauliflower, summer squash etc...and anything else that might be around that he likes.
• Fruit: apples, pears, berries (or whatever is around that he likes)
• Grains: leftover brown rice, whole wheat pasta, couscous, quinoa, sweet and regular potatoes...and anything else leftover that he likes. 
• Meat: scraps of whatever we have leftover
• Dairy: plain non-fat yoghurt

I mix it all together, making sure there is enough kibble (which has many of Ponchos doggy specific required nutrients) and wet stuff to make it the consistency of a human type chicken salad. I add a little chicken broth or water to thin it out a bit. Then, I cover and refrigerate it overnight. This way, the kibble soaks up the water from the veggies etc...makes it a little stiffer, for easier stuffing. 

Now Im ready to prepare Ponchos meals. I take one of his Kong toys, and using a small fork or spoon, I fill it tightly with his "casserole". I then wrap it in plastic wrap, and put it in the freezer. This way, I can make a whole bunch of them, and keep them for when I need them. When theyre frozen, it takes him longer to go through one...instead of gulping down a meal in 10 seconds!

If youre just starting out, youll want to have your dog go through all the "stages" - beginners level (pre-school) to "University". If you start with a more difficult level, your dog might get frustrated and not want anything to do with it. Making it easy gets him or her conditioned to loving their Kong. They begin to associate the toy with more excitement than just the food itself. Its a fun game for them - plus again, this action taps into their predatory drive, and gives them something to do! 

Here are some "level of difficulty" suggestions, which are based upon how quickly your dog can get the food out:

1. Beginner: dry kibble (can add in some dry treats to make it extra tasty and enticing), top off hole with wet food.
2. Intermediate I: mix kibble with a little wet food, add any leftovers you want, loosely pack it - you still want to make it easy for food to come out. 
3. Intermediate II: kibble, wet food, any leftovers you want to add, pack it tight. 
4. Advanced: Freeze it! Initially you can thaw it partially before giving it to your dog, so as not to make it too difficult. 

Remember: there are some foods that are not healthy or safe for your dog - check with your vet if you are unsure. If youre dog has never had a Kong, its best to supervise until you know he or she know how to "use it". 

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What not to do when training your dog

08.36 in beginner, do, Dog, not, to, training, videos, what, when, your

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Tricks you can teach your dog to do

09.09 in can, do, Dog, teach, to, tricks, you, your

It is very common in households around the world to incorporate dogs and other domestic animals into the family home. Puppies, like most baby animals, have mischievous streaks. Read on for some ideas on training your dog.

There are a lot of tricks you can teach your dog to do; a common one is training him to hold a toy in his mouth without chewing it. Use a clicker to give the dog a treat whenever the dogs uses his mouth to hold a toy. After a few tries you should allow the dog to pick up the toy on his own. As soon as the dog does this, use the clicker and give a reward. If he holds it in his mouth, you can give him a reward.



 Inform guests on the proper protocols for interacting with your dog. These kind of things can cause your dog to jump on people or adopt a dominant attitude.

 Disciplined leash walking is very important in dog training. Not only is this safer for the dog and easier on your body, such a frequent activity mandates good self-control and reinforcement of the chain of command from training.

 If you are feeling anxious, or feel like you cant be patient, it is best to not even start a session. Your patience is vital for encouraging the focused attention your dog needs to get the full benefits of training.

 Anxious dogs are prone to chewing on things they shouldnt. If you give the dog a chew toy and put him in the safety of a dog crate, he can occupy himself while youre not at the house.

 Use treats your dog really loves to achieve maximum training efficiency. This might be an extra-special treat that your dog does not ordinarily have the opportunity to enjoy.

 Big dogs need a bed that can accommodate them, especially if they like to stretch and sleep on their back. There are big, long dog beds around for larger dogs, or you could look for a mattress taken from a crib. A crib mattress is also an easy to care for alternative to a dog bed because the sheets can be changed regularly with little fuss. Theyre waterproof, too!

 When considering the possibility of hiring a professional to work with your dog, look into their background, reputation and conduct an in depth interview with them. Many animal behavior specialists have opposing opinions on how to correctly train dogs. Be sure to verify that the trainer you hire has similar ideas as yours, prior to implementing any of their tips.

 Include plenty of physical activity in your dogs training routine. Dogs can easily get bored. A bored dog will try and find something interesting to do, and training is not usually interesting. Keeping your dog exercised and happy will help them pay attention more due to releasing all excess energy that often distracts them from your commands. Go for long walks and runs with your dog.

 Get everyone in your house on the same page regarding dog training. If the dog jumps up and you use "get down" but your husband says "no boy", the dog will get confused. You give your dog a greater chance for success if everyone is on board with using the same words.

 The way dogs learn is by repeating techniques and being rewarded. You need to make sure your dog understands what the expected behavior is, be consistent in your expectations and practice the behaviors daily. This is the correct way for a dog to learn a trick. You have to show them with plenty of repetition and rewards.

 A consistent schedule of feeding and potty-time is very important when house training your dog. By establishing a regular potty-time every day, you will get your dog in the habit of doing his business at the same time daily. Sticking to a schedule will teach your dog how to control himself until his next scheduled potty break.

 Training should be fun for your dog. Only train your dog in ten to fifteen minute sessions. A dog has a limited attention span so any longer will cause him or her to become bored. Be sure to provide rewards often, and give different treats from time to time. You should lavish praises on your dog for following your instructions. The more enjoyable training is for your dog, the more he will look forward to it!

 When it comes to training your dog, never give up. Dogs need consistent reinforcement in what you have taught them so they remember the good behaviors and dont revert back to their old, disobedient ways they had before training. Training never ends. It is an important part of taking care of your dog.

 Limit the duration of training sessions. A long, uninterrupted training period is going to exhaust your dogs attention. Start off with individual training periods of no more than 10 minutes.

 A dog needs to be trained from the outset. The sooner you start training the dog the better, because they have not learned bad habits that you will have to correct. If you never give your dog any scraps from table food, they will never start begging for it.

 If your puppy is caught chewing on something unacceptable, stop him immediately. This will help your puppy understand what is acceptable and what is off limits.

 Dogs that have trouble with separation anxiety need to develop stronger relationships with others in your household. Allowing the dog to establish relationships with new people will lessen its dependence on the owner.

 A clicker works well when training most dogs. Using a clicker is as simple as showing your dog that good things happen when the clicking noise is heard. Try using this technique right away, doing it frequently over a span of a few days. Your dog will soon know that the clicking noise means that they are doing a good job.

 You should be able to have a clean home and a loving dog. While a dog can cause quite a bit of destruction, and make a mess in your home, proper dog training will alleviate most of these issues. Take advantage of the tips mentioned here, and you will be rewarded with a peaceful environment and a loving dog..

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Do You Want your Puppy here

15.43 in do, Dog, dogs, here, puppies, puppy, to, want, you, your

Ccan you imagine how your children would feel seeing both themselves and their puppies on-line. Well you can. Just send me their photoes and I will add them to this site for the whole world to see. Post them to me Denis Kermode at denis@tarotservices.com  and I will post them on this blog giving full credits. Why not let me know a little about your puppy as well perhaps the problems you are having or just the joy it is bringing into your life. This is why we are here, to share the moments a new puppy brings us.

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Counting Calories For Your Dog

01.24 in calories, counting, do, Dog, for, here, puppy, want, you, your

Counting Calories

For Your Dog

There’s a very good chance that your dog may be overweight and you don’t know it! Did you know that the number on canine health disorder is obesity? According to reports from many veterinarians, as many as 25%-44% of all dogs are overweight but it could be even more. If a dog weighs more than 15% than what is the average for the particular dog’s height, he is obese.

It’s no surprise that conditions related to obesity are on the rise. These conditions include diabetes mellitus and orthopedic, musculoskeletal, cardiovascular, gastrointestinal, endocrine, respiratory, immune, and reproductive disorders. All of which are devastating conditions for a dog to have.

Who’s to blame? Well, according to most doctors, obesity is on the rise because of the lack of fussiness of dogs, their natural gorging behavior, and insufficient exercise.

A prevailing ignorance of providing a nutritious, well-balanced diet with a controlled calorie intake is also to blame.

Is your dog fit or fat? Do you your dog’s daily caloric requirements and what factors may diminish those requirements?

Here’s something I bet you didn’t know. Commercial dog food is packed with sugar and fat to make the “ingredients” they put in appetizing.

Don’t use a dog’s begging behavior as a gauge on how much to feed him. Healthy dogs are ready to eat all the time and some can quite literally eat while flat on their side and just about asleep.

Keeping your dog trim and healthy is knowing how many calories he needs and how that translates into food. Your dog’s energy needs constantly change throughout his life. As he becomes more active, it will increase and as he gets older it will decrease.

Individual metabolism, exercise, age, environment and overall health will determine what your dog really needs to remain lean and healthy. Since your dog can only have so many calories every day, it is important to pack lots of nutrition, bulk and appeal into those calories.

In order to determine what your dog to remain lean and healthy, you must take into account his age, environment, exercise, metabolism, and overall health. It’s imperative that since your dog can only have so many calories per day, that those calories be packed with as much nutrition, mass, and appeal as possible.

Do you want to learn some great homemade dog food recipes that could help increase your dog’s lifespan by almost 134%?! Find out which Premium" dog foods to avoid if you do decide to buy commercial dog food. Get FREE recipes and more here http://homemaderecipes-dogfood.blogspot.com/ Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Del_Hiestand

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Does your dog have a waist

07.34 in a, do, does, dog, have, not, to, training, waist, what, when, your

If you are interested in working on tricks and behaviors with your dog, your dog should be the proper weight to prevent injury, discomfort and disinterest in working. A dog that is even slightly overweight can loose interest in working for food (not all dogs mind you!). If your dog is slightly overweight, try to maintain your dogs appropriate weight and see what a difference it can make in training. All dogs should have a waist!!! Depriving a dog of food is not the idea, the dog should feel comfortable not hungry. If your dog is ravenous, feed a small meal before training, to stop frustration.

I got this weight chart off the internet, I could not find who is the actual artist who created it, as it was on many internet sites without credit. So if you know where this diagram originated, please let me know so I can give them credit for their work!



A lot of vets will not tell you that your dog is overweight! It is up to you to assess your dogs weight and decrease or increase calorie intake accordingly. It is especially important with toy dogs as they can gain and loose weight rapidly if you feed a varied diet.

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