Tampilkan postingan dengan label behavior. Tampilkan semua postingan
Tampilkan postingan dengan label behavior. Tampilkan semua postingan

Senin, 20 Juni 2016

Dog Behavior and Exercise a look at before and after

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My friend Emilia just emailed me a great photo of her dog Nellie. They were in my Manners Class this last Autumn, along with Nellies dad Nick. Nellie is an absolute sweetheart! Friendly as can be, totally outgoing, motivated to learn, pays attention in class! Her mom and dad have always said she has lots of energy, and that sometimes its hard to deal with, as you can see from this picture... You can also check out her energy level on my "chewing illegal items" post. 


Well they went on a little getaway where Nellie was able to run like the wind forever and a day... and when she got home she could barely chew her dinner let alone get into mischief. This is living proof why our domestic dogs need more exercise than they often receive. As I often say in my classes and privates: A tired dog is a happy dog, and a happier owner! A pictures worth a thousand words... and proof of how good a run-around session really is!  



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Sabtu, 18 Juni 2016

Dog Behavior and Discrimination how come my dog listens to my husband but not me

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I know, nowadays the word "discrimination" can be a negative thing. As socially conscious humans were not supposed to discriminate - at least when were talking about certain human characteristics. But trust me, we discriminate all the time - and its a good thing, as youll see below. How does discrimination relate to dog training? First a general definition of discrimination: 
  • the recognition and understanding of the difference between one thing and another: discrimination between right and wrong | young children have difficulties in making fine discriminations.
  • the ability to distinguish between different stimuli : [as adj. ] discrimination learning.
With consistency, and precise timing, we can actively teach dogs to discriminate. Check out the video of me and Poncho the dog. Im teaching him to discriminate when to jump through my legs. Turning my right leg out is the cue for him to jump through. Turning my left leg out, he isnt supposed to. He got his reward for staying put. 



Poncho learned pretty quickly that: right leg turned out = jump through = gets rewarded. Left leg turned out = stay = gets rewarded. If he didnt jump when he was supposed to, or jumped when I didnt want him to, then Id give him a "too bad", which is the cue for "no reward". The punishment is he doesnt get a food reward, and he has to wait to try again. 

Another human world example:
  • Green light = "go", Red light = Stop, Yellow light = "slow down in preparation of stopping" (although some folks define the yellow as "speed up and get through the intersection"). 
In this example we, as humans, discriminate between the different colors of the traffic signal, and based on what weve learned, we know what to do for each one. I dont know about you, but when I was a child, I quickly learned which parent to go to for what, and when to ask. This is example of "discriminative learning".

As a certified pet dog trainer, I often hear comments or get questions, either from my manners class students or my Noozhawk advice column about "Why does a dog do one thing for one person and not another? Why does my dog pull on leash with me, but not my spouse?" Well, the simple explanation is: One person is more consistent with teaching and rewarding what they want and/or punishing out what they dont want. In a case like this, the dog in question has been able to discriminate which parent to go to for what! 

Dogs, just like small children, dont have the mental capacity to distinguish between right and wrong. They arent born with the section of the brain that is wired for it, and they never really develop it. However, they are very good at differentiating between safe and dangerous. Along with discriminating between safe or dangerous stimuli, they are masters at discriminating between finite cues - provided passively or actively. For example:
  • Passive cue: sneakers = going for walkies, dress shoes = dog stays home while human goes to work. 
  • Active cue: human places specific blanket (environmental cue) on couch = dog gets to hang out on couch. No blanky on couch, doggy isnt allowed on couch.
So, if your dog is behaving differently for you than they are for someone else, ask yourself: 
  • What am I rewarding or not rewarding my dog for?
  • Am I being consistent?
  • What cues am I giving my dog?
Then, once youve answered yourself, you can then fix the problem, if there is one. 

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Rabu, 15 Juni 2016

Dog Training and Behavior Terms Defined What do you mean by that

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If you know about me, this lil ol certified pet dog trainer of The Inquisitive Canine here in Ventura, then you know I prefer to sit in the "science camp" of dog training. Im usually pretty cautious when throwing around the science jargon, but if youve ever taken my dog training classes, dog training workshops, or have had me consult with you for private dog training, then a few of the behavior specific expressions may have come out. 

The waters can get muddy sometimes. So what Id like to do is define some of the widely used, more popular, dog training language that is currently being heard more frequently, but in laymans terms. Along with the definition, if appropriate, Ill throw in a human analogy as well. I have found that this helps us humans relate better to our pet dogs. 
  • Aversive: Anything an animal considers ‘bad’ - anything unpleasant, painful, annoying, uncomfortable. A strong dislike or disinclination; tending to avoid or causing avoidance of a noxious or punishing stimulus. e.g: Shouting, hitting, ignoring, jerking with the leash, squirt bottles, applying pain intentionally, grabbing, restraining, noxious sprays, and electric shock
  • Behavior: the way in which one acts or conducts oneself. Any action performed that can be observed and measured. e.g: Your dog resting in their bed
  • Bridge: AKA ‘bridging stimulus’ or ‘marker’ A stimulus (something an animal sees, hears, feels) that pinpoints the exact moment in time an action of a desired behavior was performed - bridging the gap between the time the signal was given and the delivery of a reward is provided. e.g: The ‘click’ of a clicker, the sound of a whistle. 
  • Classical Conditioning: AKA: ‘ Respondent Conditioning’, ‘Pavlovian Conditioning’ 
  1. A learning process that occurs when two stimuli are repeatedly paired: a response that is at first elicited by the second stimulus is eventually elicited by the first stimulus alone. 
  2. Conditioning in which the conditioned stimulus (as the sound of a bell) is paired with and precedes the unconditioned stimulus (as the sight of food) until the conditioned stimulus alone is sufficient to elicit the response (as salivation in a dog) 
  • Conditioning: Learning. *Observe your dogs behavior. If their behavior changes, learning is taking place. 
  • Consequence: An action or event that occurs after a behavior. It can affect how often that behavior will occur again in the future. 
  • Counter-conditioning: Taking a fear-provoking event, which is associated with an unpleasant situation, and changing (countering or reversing) the association to one that predicts something pleasant. Reversal the learned response. Often used in conjunction with desensitization. 
  • Cue: A signal which will elicit a specific behavior or reflex. e.g: Saying "sit" or using hand signal for "sit". 
  • Desensitization: Process where normal defense reactions elicited by an aversive stimulus, such as shock, are modified by creating pleasant associations with a positive reinforcer. This is achieved by presenting the fear-provoking event (stimulus) at levels low enough not to cause a reaction, but enough for the animal to notice, while pairing this event (stimulus) with something the animal loves causing the feelings to be reversed. Levels of intensity are gradually increased, as long as the animal stays below the fear-provoking level of intensity. Used in conjunction with counter-conditioning
  • Discrimination: The ability to differentiate between to similar competing stimuli. The ability to perceive differences in various aspects of the environment. 
  • Flooding: AKA: Exposure "Response Prevention." An extinction process used to treat anxiety and fear-related disorders. Animal is exposed to specific anxiety producing stimulus at levels high enough until the animal no longer reacts. Intention of this treatment is for animal to relearn coping skills when exposed to stimulus, however this is considered amongst many to be cruel and unethical, and often doesnt work, depending upon the animal, and what the anxiety producing stimulus is. 
  • Generalization: The process of comparing events, consequences or objects which have some trait in common and recognizing those commonalities between them. The tendency to respond to a class of stimuli rather than only to the one to which the animal was originally conditioned to. Make for wide general use or application. e.g: Dog can perform the same behavior in any setting when asked to do so without having to relearn.
  • Habituation: the diminishing of a physiological or emotional response to a frequently repeated stimulus. The relatively persistent fading of a response as a result of repeated stimulation which is not followed by any specific reinforcement. AKA: Passive Desensitization.
  • Instinct: An inborn predisposition to behave in a specific way when appropriately stimulated. Instincts are species specific complex behaviors. They are natural and unconditioned qualities shared by all members of a species. e.g. dogs chasing things, guarding their bones, digging, chewing, jumping up to greet. 
  • Learned Helplessness: A condition created by exposure to inescapable aversive events. This can lead to delayed or prevention of learning in subsequent situations in which escape or avoidance is possible. When a human or animal ‘gives up’, and stops trying due to multiple failed attempts at trying to control a situation. e.g. dog sits politely at all times because the alternate might risk "getting in trouble" by owner. 
  • Learning: the acquisition of knowledge or skills through experience, practice, or study, or by being taught. The process in which relatively permanent changes in behavior are produced through experience and memories.
  • Lure: Something that motivates or is used to motivate a person or animal to do something.
  • Motivation: A general term referring to the forces regulating behavior that is undertaken because of instinctual drives, needs, desires, and is directed towards a goal. One factor that can influence whether or not a learned behavior will be performed. Animal needs to be motivated in some way to perform a specific behavior - either from others, or from within. e.g. for dogs: petting, praise, attention, toys, games, tug, food playing with other dogs. 
  • Negative punishment: In operant conditioning, the removal of something an animal wants.  e.g. Dog jumps on person to say ‘hello’ - person turns their back and ignores dog.
  • Negative reinforcement: In operant conditioning, the removal of something an animal finds unpleasant, as an immediate result of the desired behavior performed. e.g. Pull up on choke collar until dog sits butt on ground, choke collar released. Pinning dog on back until dog relaxes and "submits." In both examples its the release of the choke chain, or allowing the dog to get up after pinning. 
  • Operant Conditioning: AKA ‘Instrumental Conditioning’, ‘Skinnerian Conditioning’. The fundamental principle of operant conditioning is: behavior is determined by its consequences. A form of learning in which something the animal finds pleasant or unpleasant is presented or removed, thus altering the rate at which the behavior is performed. 
  • Positive Punishment: In operant conditioning, the addition of an aversive stimulus, or something an animal seeks to avoid, that is found within the animals environment, following a behavior, with the intention of decreasing the frequency of that behavior. e.g. dog eliminates on carpet, dog get smacked. Owner pinning dog in order to "take control." 
  • Positive Reinforcement: In operant conditioning, an event or stimulus provided following a specific behavior with the intention of increasing the frequency of that behavior. A positive reinforcer is something the animal desires or finds pleasant. e.g. dog sits, get treat for sitting, dog continues to sit because it predict treats. 
  • Reinforce: Strengthen or support an existing feeling, idea, or habit. 
  • Reinforcer: Anything that increases the frequency of the behavior it immediately follows. 
  • Reinforcement: The event which increases the frequency of the behavior it follows. 
  • Reward: Anything the dog considers ‘good’- stimulates at least one of the five senses - sight, smell, taste, touch, sound. Anything the dog finds motivating and reinforcing - can be: food, toys, praise, touch, freedom. e.g. belly-rub, rousing game of fetch, comfy bed, something stinky to roll in, kissy-face with family members, liver treat. A return that is obtained upon the successful performance of a task. 
  • Reward-based training program: Using anything an animal finds appealing and ‘rewarding’ to elicit, reinforce, or inhibit behaviors. 
  • Sensitization: Intensifying of an animals response to stimuli that did not originally produce such strong feelings. 
  • Shaping: A method of modifying behavior. The entire process of selectively reinforcing responses in successive steps towards the goal of a desired response. Based on principles of operant conditioning in which an animals behavior is gradually molded to specific desired patterns through the delivery of positive reinforcement at distinct moments. 

Minggu, 12 Juni 2016

Dog Behavior a realistic look

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Poncho and I just got home from spending a nice romp on the baseball field. Before we walked around ourselves I spent a few minutes just watching the young kids with their parents playing catch, doing warm-up drills, and getting settled in before they started their game. I noticed there were some kids throwing the ball in every direction they could - even if no one in particular was there to catch it...just giggling and flailing about - having such a great time. Then there were the two boys that were rolling on the grass...down the hill, just rolling and rolling and rolling... I started giggling - remembering doing that as a child too, and having so much fun. 

My question today is: how come all we expect from children is to laugh, play, enjoy themselves, not talk to strangers, and maybe say please and thank you? We dont ask them to problem solve every issue they may encounter or even leave it up to them to entertain themselves - unless we supply or arrange the activities. Why do I bring this up? Because it seems we expect differently from our domestic dogs, even though they are mentally equivalent to a two year old human. 

So, what are we supposed to do? I say, treat them as dogs, while having expectations that would equate to what theyre capable of doing, not what we wish they could do. If your dog has never learned to *retrieve*, then you cant expect to throw the ball fifty yards and have him or her go fetch and bring it back dropping at your feet on the first try. Maybe they will! If so, throw a party! If not, then teach your dog what you want in a way they would understand. Making it simple, like the kids learning T-Ball first, before moving up the difficulty ladder. Set them up for success! Otherwise you may be the one that gets frustrated. 

Skills like this are discussed and taught in my own classes here at The Inquisitive Canine in Ventura. We talk about making training steps easier or more difficult for you and your dog. When you are learning something new, or when youre wanting to advance on the skills your dog already knows... Its lots of fun, but we still focus on realistic expectations. Makes for a much more fulfilling and rewarding time. 

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Kamis, 09 Juni 2016

Violence Begets Violence in Pet Dogs Too Yippee For Dog Behavior Studies!

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"Do unto others" I say - especially when it comes to teaching my dog training classes and private dog training clients. The last thing I would ever want when learning a knew skill or being taught how to "behave" is to be yelled at or smacked! So why is this acceptable with our pets? In the dog training classes and other dog training services I offer, its not! Thats one reason people come to me in the first place.

It seems that there are some provocative dog training methods out there that have become quite popular due to the media and television. Unlike the Food Network and all of the cooking shows, some of the dog training methods being shown dont seem to be as "user friendly" - for both dogs and the humans...unless of course youre the star of the show. 

Yes, there is more than one way to train a dog, just like there is more than one way to make a meatloaf. But using physical force, coercive methods, and a "its my way or the highway" attitude often doesnt get you as far as teaching an animal what you want in a way they understand. By taking a "I hold myself accountable" friendly, understanding and "have patience" approach, you can not only teach your dog the behavior you want, but you teach it in such a way they end up thinking for themselves, wanting to make the better choice because it:
  1. Works for them 
  2. They develop positive associations with whatever is happening at the time 
  3. Theyre not afraid of being hurt or getting in trouble! 
I came across this great study on how Aggression Begets Aggression in our pet dogs from the Applied Animal Behavior Science completed by Herron, Shofer and Reisner. They talk about the use of these popularized dog training methods and how they often lead to an increase of the behavioral issue. Same as humans being raised in a hostile violent environment often end up behaving the same way ~ violence begets violence. 

Thank goodness for those who take the time to study and publish this wonderful doggy data! THERES a television show Id watch! Hmm, how about it Science Channel??? 

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Selasa, 31 Mei 2016

Dog Behavior Down on the Farm Causes Issues With Owners

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My sidekick Poncho the dog and I received a dog behavior advice question from an inquisitive canine named Kia. This lucky dog lives on a lovely coffee farm in Hawaii where, in addition to the coffee, there are avocado trees and wild pigs.

Seems these environmental conditions have resulted in plentiful amounts of avocados for Kia to hunt and dine on, as well as piles of pig poop to roll in. Poncho, being an inquisitive canine, confirmed that this is the ideal place for a dog! I mean, how much fun is it to have your own "entertainment center" (aka: enrichment) right outside your front door? Snacks and one doggone fun activity such as rolling in nasty stinky stuff.

As you can see from these photos, Poncho likes to "rock n roll"
too! Maybe because hes smaller and easy for me to bathe I allow him to roll in whatever he finds appealing - as a matter of fact Ill use it as a reward if I can! I call these "environmental rewards" or "real life" rewards.
For instance when were out on a walk he sees something interesting and starts showing signs of wanting to roll. For Poncho this includes: lots of sniffing, followed by scratching the area with one of his front paws, more sniffing, scratching, then rubbing the side of his face against the surface. If he likes what hes "sensing" then he starts his rolling....

If hes on leash Ill ask for a behavior first, like "watch me", sit or "touch" - then Ill send him off to roll, after Ive given him his release cue of "okay". This allows Poncho to be a dog, but still minding his loose leash walking manners - as opposed to just pulling me wherever he wants.

The guardians of Kia can use this same training plan. Allow Kia to roll in the pig poop, but only when shes been given the cue to do so. (And shes had clearance from her veterinarian that its okay to roll in that stuff).

A few other training tips for both the rolling and avocado issue Id recommend are:
  • Reward Kia every time she ignores an avocado or pile of stench. And I mean reward! More than just a “Good dog!” Set it up where you are actively walking Kia near to where these items are, and whenever she looks at one and ignores it, throw a party!
  • If she goes towards either of these items, use the “Leave it!” cue, lure her away from whichever item you want her to ignore, then reward her.
  • If Kia decides the item in question is more motivating, give her a “Time out!” penalty - put her on leash for 20 seconds or so. But then let her off leash so you can give her another chance to make the preferred choice.
Lastly, management of a dogs environment is key when setting him or her up for success! A farm filled with a bounty of avocados and piles of stinky stuff to roll in is an ideal place for total fun! Its unfair of us to expect they wouldnt want to go and explore, so we need to take the time to teach our dogs what we want in a way that he or she would understand.

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Minggu, 15 Mei 2016

Dog Play Behavior Are they fighting or playing

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"What is dog play all about?" This is one of those comments I hear from various folks...and often get questions about. Both in and out of the studio classroom - especially when folks first start bringing their dogs to our dog socials at my studio - The Inquisitive Canine here in Ventura.
Humans commonly assume that dogs that "hump" or "mount" just want to have sex with them, or that the dog is attracted to them etc... Ugh... really? Do you really think youre that charming, and that maybe all of the spoiling has lead your dog to want to return the favor in a way they think you might like? Come on... heres a quickie lesson on dogs humping and dog play:



Dog play is practicing of "the four Fs" - meaning, if they had to survive out in the wild so they could pass on their genes - surviving, hunting for food, creating more of themselves in order to pass on their genetics (cause thats what its all about, right) - survival of the fittest so you can pass along your DNA... This is the list of the four Fs:
  • "Fight" - dog play can get really rough - think two young human male children playing and wrestling about - With dogs its: I mouth you (practice biting but inhibited bites in play), you mouth me, I pin you, you pin me etc...
  • "Flight" - I chase you, you chase me
  • "Feed" - meaning all the steps of the predatory sequence, including the "grab-shake-kill" - chasing, stalking etc...
  • "Fun!" (fornicating etc...) - I mount you, you mount me... Unless both dogs (one male one female) are actually intending to breed in order to make more of themselves, then the whole humping action is just play! Thats why you see males humping males, females humping females, females on males, dogs on humans etc...and humping in positions that are not related at all to actually "doing the deed"...
Its important that dogs learn what proper dog socialization play is, and what is appropriate - that is what dog social time is for!!! Yes, we can give the dog a "time out" if we dont like something... but dogs (really important for puppies especially) are learning about what play is - and doggy DNA is telling them to "hump" - most likely trying to get the other "animal" to play... If humans dont like it, the best thing to do is completely walk away and ignore the dog completely, but throw a party and play like crazy when he is playing the way they want... Older, well socialized dogs, who have great play skills can help "guide" younger pups...the older one will "tell him" (growl or a snap) to knock it off if he or she has gone 
too far...

*A BIG note of importance: DOG PLAY SHOULD BE: RECIPROCAL and CONSENSUAL! Sure, for some dogs theyd rather be the chasee vs the chaser. How to tell? Look at the one being chased - are they running off and trying to hide the entire time? Cowering under things? Trying to find their guardian? Or are they egging the chaser on? "Come on! Chase me!!" 

As for consensual: look at this picture of Freddie (the one mounting) and Jazz (the one in the red harness). Jazzs face is relaxed, focused on something else at the moment, doesnt appear to care. If it werent consensual, Jazz would have turned around and growled or snapped "Knock it off!!!" 

Providing opportunities for our dogs to socialize and play is very important for their well being, and development as well-mannered canines - dog training classes and dog socials can help provide them. You just want to keep an eye on the situation, making sure that play-time is safe and fun. 

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Sabtu, 14 Mei 2016

Puppy Training Dog Training Behavior Training

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Puppy training is the second thing you look for after you realize that you new furry best friend has just relief themselves all over the kitchen floor; the first being the paper towers that you can never seems to find.
Puppy potty training can help fix this problem as can puppy training and behavior training help you enjoy more your new friend.
There are many training hints and tips out there even for those dogs older dogs looking for that odd bit of obedience training.

So it’s in your and your furniture’s best interest to train your puppy.

A well trained puppy will grow up into a happy, healthy dog, who will love you as long as you look after them properly and you and your dog will be happy.


Have a nice day

Ron

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Sabtu, 07 Mei 2016

Changing behavior Who me

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behavior modification |noun
the alteration of behavioral patterns through the use of such learning techniques as biofeedback and positive or negative reinforcement.

Why does training your dog have to be such a difficult process? Why why why? Hmmm, well, it doesn’t really. I think as humans we just make it as such...that is our innate behavior, no? ~ Let’s see. Behavior = the way in which one acts or conducts oneself. Just being alive is performing a behavior right? Sleeping in front of the TV is a “behavior”. Okay, that’s a simple one... It’s the whole “modification” process that sends us into a tizzy. After all, if we want to change someone else’s behavior we have to start with changing our own... Yikes! That’s too much work! Nah, it really doesn’t have to be...you just need a plan. Once you have a plan, consisting of a just a few small steps that you can fit into everyday life, then it too becomes part of your regular schedule... And therefore, a simple approach to reaching your goals...

Just go and experiment yourself... Pick one thing you love your dog doing. Then, be aware of when your dog is performing this behavior, and make sure you reward him or her with something that motivate them. Either a “treat”, praise, petting, playing a game. Something they find rewarding... This tells them “thank you”, “I appreciate that”. After all, don’t we all appreciate someone appreciating us.

Simple yes? Good. See? You’ve already modified your own behavior. Now, it’s time to go modify your dogs.


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Senin, 02 Mei 2016

Shaping Your Dogs Behavior Stop Look Listen and Maybe Change Your Own Behavior First

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When it comes to getting our dogs to change their behavior, sometimes its best to change our own behavior first. As a certified professional dog trainer, and loving dog mom to Poncho the dog, one element of communication that Ive learned is more important than many others is the art of listening. And with our pet dogs, listening also means observing since body language is a dogs first language.

One of our latest Dear Inquisitive Canine advice questions came from a woman who mentioned her dog Colby developed behavior issues after a family vacation. To read the entire column, you can click on the Noozhawk Dog Behavior Advice Column link. In addition to the information in the advice column Id also like to address two other topics of canine body language and what they might be communicating.

  • Dog Communication and Warning Signals: Our beloved canines have a wonderful way of communicating with body language. It’s their first language and one us humans need to pay better attention to. There’s an old joke: “What do you say to a growling dog?” Answer: “Thank you!” They’ve just told you they aren’t happy about something.
  • Growling Leading to Biting: The “I’m upset” escalation scale for dogs is: freeze-growl-snarl-snap-bite, bite harder, bite even harder - bite harder again… Dogs will continue to progress up this ladder if 1) they feel they are being ignored (“No one is listening to me! Next time I better speak up louder by biting!”), and 2) What they are “saying” is being punished out (“The last time I told my humans I was upset by snapping at them I got in trouble. I guess I’ll have to “‘speak up” louder the next time, which means I’ll need to bite! Maybe then they’ll listen.”)
Remember my dear human (and maybe canine) friends out there: the art of being a good communicator is not just talking - its also about listening, or in the case of listening to our dogs, the art of good observational skills.

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Jumat, 08 April 2016

The best way to teach a dog good behavior

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Dog training can be very intimidating to someone that has never done it before. There is a lot of information out there and sorting through it all can seem difficult. These are just some tips to help you start out with dog training the right way.

The best way to teach a dog good behavior is to never let poor behavior take hold. Dogs find it much harder to break existing bad habits than to learn new, positive ones. For instance, a dog that is never fed table scraps is less likely to beg at the table.



 When training your dog, do not include any punishments. Taking preventative measures to avoid the occurrence of a bad behavior to begin with is always best, however, if your dog does get out of line, demonstrate how it should have been done rather than scolding him. Training your dog is a great way to develop a positive relationship with him.

 Dont give up on training your dog, no matter what. Through constant and positive reinforcement, you will be able to train your dog to retain the behaviors you teach them. Taking care of your dog must include instituting a training plan, as well as meeting his food and shelter needs.

 Everyone in the family should use the exact same commands when training your dog. If you mix up commands, like one family member saying "up" when another says "jump," the dog will have a more difficult time figuring out what you want. As long as you use consistency, then your dog has a great chance of learning all of the tricks and behaviors that you wish.

 If you catch your puppy chewing on things, stop him. By doing this, you are teaching him what is okay to chew on.

 If your dog suffers from separation anxiety when youre away, encourage him to bond with other members of the household. This will help it be less focused on the fact that you are not home.

 Get your dog used to the things they will encounter when going for a vet visit. Practice gently moving your hands all over your dogs body and reward him for staying calm. You also need to get him ready to have his paws held and looked at, as well as his teeth examined. Ask your friends to help out, as well.

 Dont be ashamed to ask for help if your training program doesnt change your dogs behavior. Particularly if you are struggling to achieve the results you desire, professional help may be just what you need. Professional dog trainers know the ins and outs of this better than you. This may be what to takes to get your dog started on the right foot.

 A trick you could teach your dog is to hold something in his mouth, such as a toy. Get your dogs attention with a clicker and reward him with a snack when he tastes or mouths the toy. When this has happened several times, hold off until the dog grabs the toy with his or her mouth. As this happens, press the clicker and then offer the reward. Also, rewards should only be given if the toy remains in the dogs mouth.

 Your dog needs to be mentally stimulated just like a human does. Visit your local pet shop for new and entertaining toys for your dog on a regular basis. If you neglect your dog, your dog wont neglect to chew up your valuable possessions.

 Have fun with your dog each day when training. A sense of play brings you and your dog together. This bond makes the dog more responsive to your commands and training him easier. Having fun with your dog during training is one thing, but playing and having fun with your dog outside of training is also necessary.

 Keeping your dog active is an important part of successful dog training and is also good for their health. Dogs are not made to sit around. The happiest, healthiest dogs run and work. Run with your dog, take it to the park or teach it to play Frisbee. Do not allow your dog to become bored and keep it entertained by keeping it active.

 Any complicated or multistage task you would like to teach your dog should be broken down into steps. A great example of a teachable command is having your dog get the paper in the mornings. You will need to teach him or her how to hold something first. Next, he must learn the name of the object. After that, you should teach him how to take the object in his mouth. Then, he should give it to you. Breaking a task into small steps will make the information your dog has to process much more digestible and consequently, more easily accomplished.

 Keep your dog well exercised and active. Dogs can get bored easily. A bored dog will try and find something interesting to do, and training is not usually interesting. When your dog is exercised and is happy, training will be easier. Walk or run your dog frequently.

 You will find dogs are simply dogs. Allow for activities that let him be himself and have fun. Dogs need to eat well, a spacious run, and lots of toys and interesting things to occupy their time.

 In the majority of instances, dog bites are caused by a biting phobia. The occurrence is frequently due to a dogs anxiety, claustrophobia, or sense that danger is imminent. Train your dog with praise and discipline, not physical force. This could have the unfortunate effect of causing your dog to bite you. If your dog trusts you, he will want to make you happy and look towards you as a leader.

 Do not let your dog decide when to listen and when not to listen. If the patience to follow through with any command you give is not there, simply choose to not give it instead.

 Dogs that have trouble with separation anxiety need to develop stronger relationships with others in your household. Allowing the dog to establish relationships with new people will lessen its dependence on the owner.

 A clicker works well when training most dogs. Using a clicker is as simple as showing your dog that good things happen when the clicking noise is heard. Try using this technique right away, doing it frequently over a span of a few days. Your dog will soon know that the clicking noise means that they are doing a good job.

 It is hoped that you have found some guidance from these suggestions. Remember these tips as a guide to helping you train your dog, so both you and your dog will be very happy..

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Sabtu, 26 Maret 2016

The better dog behavior question leading to success!

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When it comes to the behavior of our dogs, we often ask ourself: "Why do you keep doing that (dogs name)?" As a dog trainer I get calls all the time with that question. At home, being a *dog mom* first, I will catch myself asking myself this question...usually on Mondays when the garbage trucks are circling the neighborhood about nine times throughout the day... So, whats wrong with this picture??? Were just focusing in on what we dont want - what drives us nuts - which doesnt solve anything. What we need to do is simple... we need to ask the right question: "What behavior do I want?" 

From that answer you can say to yourself: "Then this is the behavior I want to reward!" For instance, lets say I want my own dog Poncho to be quiet while he is hanging out in the yard. I do allow him to bark once (to alert me, after all, thats part of his *job* description)... So, being out there and just being quiet gets him rewarded! I make sure to catch him in the act of doing what I want, then acknowledge it, and reward. "Thank you!" If its a situation where I want him to bark I allow him to continue, if not, then I give him a separate cue for wanting quiet. If he follows it, he gets rewarded - food, play time, freedom in the yard - if not, then inside he goes. "Too bad for you." 

Now he has the choice: stay outside following the rules gets rewarded - breaking the game rules gets him nothing. 

This is the type of training steps I teach in my classes - its simple, it works, plus it gets you focused on what you want, not what you dont want... So remember, the next time you find yourself frustrated with your dog, just ask yourself "What behavior do I want? What behavior do I want to reward?" Then do it!

 

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Kamis, 24 Maret 2016

Dog Bully Behavior How to help protect your dog from getting picked on

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I recently wrote about this situation in my weekly doggie advice column on the Noozhawk. "Anxious in Austin" has a cocker spaniel that seemed to be terrorized by the neighbor’s "nightmare of a Pomeranian". When situations like this arise, it is important to be able to recognize appropriate dog play…

Venture to any off-leash dog arena and these are the types of behaviors you’ll likely see being displayed: 
  • dogs chasing after other dogs 
  • dogs being chased
  • mouthing
  • nipping
  • tugging
  • chest banging
  • pinning
  • wrestling
  • rolling
  • mounting 
But when it’s “play,” it’s reciprocal and consensual! Those are a couple key factors! Reciprocal and consensual! Other notable elements of proper play are:
  • Big, inefficient movements amongst all involved. Think “Three Stooges” versus Muhammad Ali. 
  • Self-interruption: One dog will stop for a second or two to take a break, others follow by taking a break as well. 
  • Good “listening” skills: If one dog no longer wants to play, they will communicate as such, and the other dog will comply and go in search of another playmate. 

When dogs arent exhibiting healthy dog play behaviors, there are several things you, as a responsibly aware dog guardian can do. 

The goal: to help your dog build trust and self-confidence. You can easily do this by rewarding your dog for being brave. EX: your dog looks at, approaches gently, or investigates another dog, he or she gets a yummy food reward, and lots of "cheerleading happy talk". You can also reward with food and praise if another dog approaches your dog to say *hi*. This is similar to encouraging young children to make new friends. As humans we use encouraging verbal language and praise to help children deal with shyness and novel experiences. We can do the same for our pet dogs too. Through food, your dog learns to trust, while making positive associations with other dogs they meet. 

Additional techniques that may come in handy…
  • Manage your environment or “avoid” if necessary: This is for when you don’t have the right kind of rewards handy, you don’t have the time to train, or you just don’t feel like dealing with the situation. 
  • Come up with your best “spin”: “I’m so sorry, I’m running late today and don’t have time to stop. How about another time?” “Oh geez, wouldn’t you know it, I’ve only got a couple of minutes to get my dog exercise, so I’m gonna have to take a rain check. Thanks though!” 
  • And with the convenience of modern gadgets, you can always be tied up on the phone, or even pretend to be on the phone - just make sure the ringers off so you don’t get a call while you’re faking it. I know, it’s a white lie, not very ethical. But hey, you’re doing it to protect your family and your sanity! 
  • In the case with "Austin", maintain a friendly relationship between you and your neighbor: You can use some of the same techniques with your neighbor’s dog too. Bring a basket of muffins for your neighbor, and treats for both dogs. You can reward the Pom for being nice towards your dog, while continuing the treat plan with your Cocker. If the Pom begins to “act up” the rewards stop, and you suddenly remember you have to leave. You can also explain to your neighbor that you’re trying to help your dog overcome her shyness. Many people love to help and feel needed, so it’s a good time to fill her in on your plan and ask for assistance.
  • Dog training classes and doggy socials: even for dogs that are already trained, getting into classes helps build up or maintain trained skills, but also helps to keep dogs socialized. Sometimes classes are the only time dogs get to be around other dogs. 
It’s important to be consistent when helping your dog learn to successfully conquer difficult situations. With a little patience, understanding, and time, even the shyest of dogs can make new friends, eventually leading to lots of play-dates!

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Selasa, 22 Maret 2016

Out and About at the Beach Dog behavior and proper etiquette

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I received a request from a writer for the AKC regarding "tips for taking your dog to the beach". I applaud them for publishing such great information. I say, the more responsible dog guardians are, the more places we will be allowed to bring our beloved four legged friends - We have so many wonderful beaches here in Ventura, Oxnard, Santa Barbara, Summerland, Carpinteria etc... it would be great to keep those places dog friendly!

Some general guidelines that can help promote a safe and happy time with your dog out at a beach or park are:
  • Use leashes if they are required, and it is stated as such. If it’s an off-leash place, keep your dog off-leash as well. Leashes can cause frustration, fear responses, and even fights. If you aren’t able to take your dog off leash, don’t bring them – Unless you’re sitting stationary “camped” in one place and you’re managing their environment. 
  • Clean up after your pet. Carry proper elimination bags with you. 
  • Bring your dog to public places if they are healthy. If your dog is sick or injured, ask your vet what the best form of exercise should be.
  • Monitor your dog and their behavior. Getting caught up socializing with friends can result in your dog wandering off on their own, or getting into an altercation. 
  • Spay or neuter your dog. Unaltered dogs tend to wander more, listen less, and are often targeted more often by other dogs. Plus, they don’t have much common sense when it comes to reproducing. The last thing you want is to come home with a pregnant dog, or be the owner of the expectant father. 
  • Learn to recognize dog play versus bully behavior. Is your dog being asked to play? Targeted by a bully? Is your own dog wanting to play? Or being a bully themselves? 
  • Be careful of humans wanting to say hello to your dog, or your dog wanting to go say hello to others. This goes double for younger kids. Not all dogs do well with kids – either afraid, or wanting to play. 
  • Bring dog friendly snacks and plenty of water to fulfill those doggy biological needs. 
  • Make sure your dog is up to date on all legally required vaccinations, and that they are licensed.
  • Make sure you and your dog are up to speed with those much needed behaviors you learned in your manners classes. This includes: coming when called, "leave it", loose leash walking, greeting politely, and dropping things when asked to (rocks are fun to pick up and chew on). If you need help with those, you can attend one of our classes where we teach all of these behaviors. 
  • If your dog enjoys going in the water, make sure they know how to swim. 
Again, Id like to emphasize, the more responsible dog guardians are, the more places we will be allowed to bring them. Please dont be that one person that ruins it for the rest of us! 

For additional information on training services for you and your dog, please contact us. 

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Punishment Used for Modifying Human or Dog Behavior Only Useful if Done Correctly and Enforced Consistently if at All!

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2010 is in full swing! And with a brand new year that means brand new laws going into effect. Youve probably read about some of the new California laws for 2010: Blueberries, paparazzi and cow tails just to name a few. Sure, all have their place in our legal system, but just like all laws theyre only good if theyre enforced! Otherwise, theyre just empty threats.

Why does this little dog trainer in Ventura bring this subject up? Mainly because:
  1. Punishment is still being used too often as a first-line treatment of dog behavior issues: Fancy, gimmicky, popular techniques have people focus in on undesired behaviors, then use methods that "dominate" and "control" with such maneuvers as pinning, pinching and poking! Ouch!
  2. When it is used, its not being used correctly: Consistency! Timing! The former is usually absent and the latter is usually off.
  3. The more common type of punishment techniques being practiced are less of the humane type and more of the nasty bully type (aka: aversive/coercive): Alpha rolling, pinning, squirting, zapping, and choking which often leads to additional behavioral issues that end up being more difficult to treat than the initial problem behavior!
Okay, first off allow me to clarify once again that just because Im a certified dog trainer who practices positive reinforcement reward-based dog training methods, whose philosophy is in the science camp of dog training, and one who will take the path of least resistance whenever possible, doesnt mean I dont use punishment. I do. However, not as the first step of any training plan. As a matter of fact I dont even bring it up until midway into my dog training classes at Ventura College or my dog training studio. I also use the type of punishment that causes the least amount of nasty side-effects, if any at all.

Whats the basis of my punishment approach if I indeed need to go that route? Simple, reward removal! Similar to sending a basketball player to the bench for one too many fouls, not allowing a dog to participate in an activity (greeting someone or a rousing game of tug) is the punishment.

Theres no reason to head down the "dark path" by kicking, smacking, choking, alpha rolling or "showin him whos boss" in order to get your point across. What do most animals learn when faced with threats and physical harm? How to avoid the punisher! As opposed to which behavior you wanted in the first place. One more reason why punishment should be used as a last resort and with a well thought-out dog training plan!

For additional information on aversive dog training techniques and punishment, please check this dog training tips post from last November.

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