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Rabu, 15 Juni 2016

Dog Training and Behavior Terms Defined What do you mean by that

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If you know about me, this lil ol certified pet dog trainer of The Inquisitive Canine here in Ventura, then you know I prefer to sit in the "science camp" of dog training. Im usually pretty cautious when throwing around the science jargon, but if youve ever taken my dog training classes, dog training workshops, or have had me consult with you for private dog training, then a few of the behavior specific expressions may have come out. 

The waters can get muddy sometimes. So what Id like to do is define some of the widely used, more popular, dog training language that is currently being heard more frequently, but in laymans terms. Along with the definition, if appropriate, Ill throw in a human analogy as well. I have found that this helps us humans relate better to our pet dogs. 
  • Aversive: Anything an animal considers ‘bad’ - anything unpleasant, painful, annoying, uncomfortable. A strong dislike or disinclination; tending to avoid or causing avoidance of a noxious or punishing stimulus. e.g: Shouting, hitting, ignoring, jerking with the leash, squirt bottles, applying pain intentionally, grabbing, restraining, noxious sprays, and electric shock
  • Behavior: the way in which one acts or conducts oneself. Any action performed that can be observed and measured. e.g: Your dog resting in their bed
  • Bridge: AKA ‘bridging stimulus’ or ‘marker’ A stimulus (something an animal sees, hears, feels) that pinpoints the exact moment in time an action of a desired behavior was performed - bridging the gap between the time the signal was given and the delivery of a reward is provided. e.g: The ‘click’ of a clicker, the sound of a whistle. 
  • Classical Conditioning: AKA: ‘ Respondent Conditioning’, ‘Pavlovian Conditioning’ 
  1. A learning process that occurs when two stimuli are repeatedly paired: a response that is at first elicited by the second stimulus is eventually elicited by the first stimulus alone. 
  2. Conditioning in which the conditioned stimulus (as the sound of a bell) is paired with and precedes the unconditioned stimulus (as the sight of food) until the conditioned stimulus alone is sufficient to elicit the response (as salivation in a dog) 
  • Conditioning: Learning. *Observe your dogs behavior. If their behavior changes, learning is taking place. 
  • Consequence: An action or event that occurs after a behavior. It can affect how often that behavior will occur again in the future. 
  • Counter-conditioning: Taking a fear-provoking event, which is associated with an unpleasant situation, and changing (countering or reversing) the association to one that predicts something pleasant. Reversal the learned response. Often used in conjunction with desensitization. 
  • Cue: A signal which will elicit a specific behavior or reflex. e.g: Saying "sit" or using hand signal for "sit". 
  • Desensitization: Process where normal defense reactions elicited by an aversive stimulus, such as shock, are modified by creating pleasant associations with a positive reinforcer. This is achieved by presenting the fear-provoking event (stimulus) at levels low enough not to cause a reaction, but enough for the animal to notice, while pairing this event (stimulus) with something the animal loves causing the feelings to be reversed. Levels of intensity are gradually increased, as long as the animal stays below the fear-provoking level of intensity. Used in conjunction with counter-conditioning
  • Discrimination: The ability to differentiate between to similar competing stimuli. The ability to perceive differences in various aspects of the environment. 
  • Flooding: AKA: Exposure "Response Prevention." An extinction process used to treat anxiety and fear-related disorders. Animal is exposed to specific anxiety producing stimulus at levels high enough until the animal no longer reacts. Intention of this treatment is for animal to relearn coping skills when exposed to stimulus, however this is considered amongst many to be cruel and unethical, and often doesnt work, depending upon the animal, and what the anxiety producing stimulus is. 
  • Generalization: The process of comparing events, consequences or objects which have some trait in common and recognizing those commonalities between them. The tendency to respond to a class of stimuli rather than only to the one to which the animal was originally conditioned to. Make for wide general use or application. e.g: Dog can perform the same behavior in any setting when asked to do so without having to relearn.
  • Habituation: the diminishing of a physiological or emotional response to a frequently repeated stimulus. The relatively persistent fading of a response as a result of repeated stimulation which is not followed by any specific reinforcement. AKA: Passive Desensitization.
  • Instinct: An inborn predisposition to behave in a specific way when appropriately stimulated. Instincts are species specific complex behaviors. They are natural and unconditioned qualities shared by all members of a species. e.g. dogs chasing things, guarding their bones, digging, chewing, jumping up to greet. 
  • Learned Helplessness: A condition created by exposure to inescapable aversive events. This can lead to delayed or prevention of learning in subsequent situations in which escape or avoidance is possible. When a human or animal ‘gives up’, and stops trying due to multiple failed attempts at trying to control a situation. e.g. dog sits politely at all times because the alternate might risk "getting in trouble" by owner. 
  • Learning: the acquisition of knowledge or skills through experience, practice, or study, or by being taught. The process in which relatively permanent changes in behavior are produced through experience and memories.
  • Lure: Something that motivates or is used to motivate a person or animal to do something.
  • Motivation: A general term referring to the forces regulating behavior that is undertaken because of instinctual drives, needs, desires, and is directed towards a goal. One factor that can influence whether or not a learned behavior will be performed. Animal needs to be motivated in some way to perform a specific behavior - either from others, or from within. e.g. for dogs: petting, praise, attention, toys, games, tug, food playing with other dogs. 
  • Negative punishment: In operant conditioning, the removal of something an animal wants.  e.g. Dog jumps on person to say ‘hello’ - person turns their back and ignores dog.
  • Negative reinforcement: In operant conditioning, the removal of something an animal finds unpleasant, as an immediate result of the desired behavior performed. e.g. Pull up on choke collar until dog sits butt on ground, choke collar released. Pinning dog on back until dog relaxes and "submits." In both examples its the release of the choke chain, or allowing the dog to get up after pinning. 
  • Operant Conditioning: AKA ‘Instrumental Conditioning’, ‘Skinnerian Conditioning’. The fundamental principle of operant conditioning is: behavior is determined by its consequences. A form of learning in which something the animal finds pleasant or unpleasant is presented or removed, thus altering the rate at which the behavior is performed. 
  • Positive Punishment: In operant conditioning, the addition of an aversive stimulus, or something an animal seeks to avoid, that is found within the animals environment, following a behavior, with the intention of decreasing the frequency of that behavior. e.g. dog eliminates on carpet, dog get smacked. Owner pinning dog in order to "take control." 
  • Positive Reinforcement: In operant conditioning, an event or stimulus provided following a specific behavior with the intention of increasing the frequency of that behavior. A positive reinforcer is something the animal desires or finds pleasant. e.g. dog sits, get treat for sitting, dog continues to sit because it predict treats. 
  • Reinforce: Strengthen or support an existing feeling, idea, or habit. 
  • Reinforcer: Anything that increases the frequency of the behavior it immediately follows. 
  • Reinforcement: The event which increases the frequency of the behavior it follows. 
  • Reward: Anything the dog considers ‘good’- stimulates at least one of the five senses - sight, smell, taste, touch, sound. Anything the dog finds motivating and reinforcing - can be: food, toys, praise, touch, freedom. e.g. belly-rub, rousing game of fetch, comfy bed, something stinky to roll in, kissy-face with family members, liver treat. A return that is obtained upon the successful performance of a task. 
  • Reward-based training program: Using anything an animal finds appealing and ‘rewarding’ to elicit, reinforce, or inhibit behaviors. 
  • Sensitization: Intensifying of an animals response to stimuli that did not originally produce such strong feelings. 
  • Shaping: A method of modifying behavior. The entire process of selectively reinforcing responses in successive steps towards the goal of a desired response. Based on principles of operant conditioning in which an animals behavior is gradually molded to specific desired patterns through the delivery of positive reinforcement at distinct moments. 

Rabu, 25 Mei 2016

Barking by Ian Dumbar

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Some dogs get extremely worked up when visitors ring the doorbell, or when dogs walk by the house. Some spaniels and terriers bark at the drop of a hat. And our good friend Larry Labrador will bark whenever a leaf falls from a tree three roads away. Barking is as characteristically doggy as wagging a tail or burying a bone. It would be inane and inhumane to try to stop your dog from barking altogether: "You’ll never bark in this town again!" After all, some barking is extremely useful. My dogs are much more efficient than the doorbell and much more convincing than a burglar alarm. The goal then, is to teach dogs normally to be calm and quiet but to sound the alarm when intruders enter your property. The barking problem may be resolved to our advantage by management and education: first, immediately reduce the frequency of barking before we all go insane; and second, teach your dog to "Woof" and "Shush" on cue.

Reduce the Frequency of Barks

Dogs bark the most right after their owners leave home for the day. The easiest way to immediately reduce woof-frequency is by exclusively feeding your dog from hollow chew toys. Each evening weigh out and moisten your dog’s kibble or raw diet for the following day. Squish the gooey food into hollow chewtoys (Kong products and sterilized bones) and put them in the freezer overnight. In the morning, give your dog some frozen stuffed chewtoys. Your dog will spend well over an hour extricating his breakfast from the chewtoys. And if your dog is busying himself with chewtoys, he will be lying down quietly! 


Here is a video on stuffing toys:










Do not leave an excessive barker outdoors. Garden-bound dogs are exposed to many more disturbances and their barks more easily penetrate the neighborhood. Leave your dog comfortably in a single room (away from the street) with a radio playing to mask outside disturbances. If you have been leaving your dog outside because he soils or destroys the house, housetrain and chewtoy train your dog so he may enjoy indoor comforts when you are away from home.


Teach "Woof" and "Shush" On Cue

It is easier to teach your dog to shush when he is calm and focused. Therefore, teaching your dog to "Woof" on cue is the first step in "Shush" training, thus enabling you to teach "Shush" at your convenience, and not at inconvenient times when the dog decides to bark. Moreover, teaching "Shush" is now much easier because your dog is not barking uncontrollably—barking was your idea!
Station an accomplice outside the front door. Say "Woof" (or "Speak," or "Alert"), which is the cue for your assistant to ring the bell. Praise your dog profusely when he barks (prompted by the doorbell); maybe even bark along with your dog. After a few good woofs, say "Shush" and then waggle a tasty food treat in front of his nose. Your dog will stop barking as soon as he sniffs the treat because it is impossible to sniff and woof simultaneously. Praise your dog as he sniffs quietly, and then offer the treat.

Repeat this routine a dozen or so times and your dog will learn to anticipate the doorbell ringing whenever you ask him to speak. Eventually your dog will bark after your request but before the doorbell rings, meaning that your dog has learned to bark on command. Similarly, your dog will learn to anticipate the likelihood of sniffables following your "Shush" request. You have then taught your dog both to speak and shush on cue.


Over repeated "Woof" and "Shush" trials, progressively increase the length of required shush-time before offering a food reward—at first just two seconds, then three, then five, eight, twelve, twenty, and so on. By alternating instructions to woof and shush, the dog is praised and rewarded for barking on request and for shushing on request.


Remember, always speak softly when instructing your dog to shush, and reinforce your dogs silence with whisper-praise. The more softly you speak, the more your dog will be inclined to pay attention and listen (and therefore, not bark).


Teach Your Dog When to Bark

Invite a dozen people for afternoon tea to teach your dog when, and when not, to bark. Instruct your visitors (some with dogs) to walk by the house a number of times before ringing the doorbell. When the first person walks by the house, it will take all of your attention to keep your dog shushed. But persevere: it will be easier when the same person walks by the second time, and again easier on the third pass by. Eventually your dog will habituate and will no longer alert to the same persons presence in the street. Profusely praise your dog and offer treats for silent vigilance. Repeat reinforcement for quiet vigilance several times on subsequent passes by. But when the visitor starts up the garden path, eagerly and urgently say "Speak! Speak! Speak!" Praise your dog when he woofs, and then instruct him to sit and shush at the front door while you welcome the visitor. If your dog exuberantly barks and bounces at this point, simply wait until he sits and shushes and then praise and offer a treat. Have the visitor leave and come back a number of times. Eventually, your dog will greet him by sitting in silence. This procedure becomes easier with each new visitor. Your dog soon learns to watch passersby in silence and to give voice when they step on your property, but to sit and shush when they are invited indoors—a trained neighborhood watchdog, which even non-dog-owning neighbors will welcome on the street where they live.

If you require a more detailed description, read our Barking booklet. To teach your dog to be calmer and bark less, you will need numerous stuffable chewtoys. To teach your dog to "Woof" and "Shush" on cue, you need some liver treats. All of these products are available from your local pet store or on-line from www.dogwise.com. BEHAVIOR BLUEPRINTS from www.jamesandkenneth 

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Jumat, 06 Mei 2016

Invisible Barriers Tutorial is Finally Out

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www.dogmantics.com

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Sabtu, 16 April 2016

Awesome trick by Kyra Sundance and Jadie

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I got to see some of Kyra Sundances tricks while she was here in San Diego, and my favorite trick by far was this highly complex one :)

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