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Sabtu, 11 Juni 2016

All choked up over this question

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I was having a discussion on the use of choke chains with dogs - and the question came up about using them on stronger dogs, especially Pit Bull Terriers. Let me say this first: 1) I love Pit Bulls. 2) I am NOT breed biased. Doggy DNA is doggy DNA - they all have the propensity to act like dogs whether they be a teacup chihuahua or an american pit bull terrier. The difference is obvious when it comes to the injury itself, and in that: size does matter... This is what I told my friend who asked the innocent question of using them on APBTs (she lives in a big big city with APBTs everywhere...and she doesnt own a dog herself...its okay, shes still really cool)... Anyway, this was my answer for her:

but what if you have a pitbull in brooklyn (there are millions!)? just askin.. > Are you kidding? Please allow me to pass on some info: "all" animals learn the same way- So, if you have a 6 8" athletic boxer, or a 3 tall little girl, a lion, a tiger, a bear, a fish, a hamster, cat, or Pit Bull Terrier - all will learn the same way - The way that humans use choke chains for training places them (the collars) under the "Learning by Consequence" path - Based on the consequences of the animals own behavior you can either give them something they want, or take it away - or you can give them something they dont want, or remove it, or prevent it from happening. (BF Skinner come to mind here?) Anyway, the more *humane* techniques are: give something they want, or take it away - like sports (three strikes, penalty box, and that whole deal)... Dog sits = he gets a treat and gets to say *hi* to person - Dog jumps up = dog doesnt get treat and doesnt get to say hello to person. 

Choke chains, prong collars, squirt bottles, jerking the collar (collar corrections), electronic shock collars, citronella collars - all of these *positive punishment* techniques are threats, considered abusive, and only motivate the dog out of pain and fear! Plus, they only focus in on what you DONT WANT, not what you do want... If you were involved with someone that walked around with a belt in their hand, ready to hit you with it if you did something THEY didnt like, and only paid attention when you were doing something *wrong* (only in their eyes mind you - could be a normal behavior of yours...) how long would you stay with this person? 

As I mentioned above choke chains (and the like) are used for the purpose of "Consequence Learning". However, both types of learning are taking place at the same time (the "emotional" learning by association path), and thus creates a main reason for dog aggression to start - but thats a different email (post)...Ill let you digest this one first. 

This is just some of the info I talk about in my classes and workshops here in Ventura... you to can learn more about this path of learning, and well as the other - stronger path... You and your dog will love it! 

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Senin, 06 Juni 2016

Out of the Box Dog Training Game All About Skill Level

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The following is a most excellent question from one of my wonderful inquisitive canine students - thought Id share it with everyone, just in case you have the same question.

Hi Joan - I have a question regarding your new Out of the Box Dog Training Game

When practicing with my dogs Ady & Ashley, Ill want to take them from beginner to intermediate (and eventually to advanced) for certain behaviors, BUT I cant remember what differentiated one level to the next, like the descriptions on the canine circuit training class posters. Are the cards detailed like the circuit posters? Thanks - Ady and Ashleys mom

This is a great question, as Im sure there are other inquisitive canine folks out there wondering the same thing. Id be more than happy to answer this, and describe how I teach my inquisitive canine students in the various dog training classes I offer, as well as private dog training clients to make the behaviors easier or more difficult for his or her dog(s). 

The concept I teach and often refer to is "3-D Training" - Distance, Duration and Distractions. Adjusting each element on its own will make a behavior easier or more difficult for your dog to perform. 

When teaching your dog a new behavior, youll want to make it easier and increase only one "D" at a time. Youll then either lower the other two Ds" or keep them the same level. To make it more difficult, or to advance your dogs skills, increase one "D" at a time. For those truly advanced dogs out there you can increase two "Ds" at a time while lowering or keeping the third one the same.  

I describe each "D" in the following way:
  • Distance: the distance between you and your dog, or your dog and the object/person you want them to go to or target. 
  • Duration: the amount of time you want your dog to hold a position. 
  • Distractions: anything, and I mean ANYTHING in the environment that your dog can be triggered or motivated by - this includes anything that can stimulate at least one of his or her senses in some way. 
A few examples related to skill level would include:
  • Distance using Recall (coming when called): Beginner level: Inside your home, no distractions, no other behaviors like sit-stay, from 5 feet away. Advanced level: 30 yards away outside at off leash dog park with a mid-way "stop and stay". 
  • Duration using Waiting At Doors: Beginner level: Have your dog sit before being let outside, give release cue then immediately open door to let him or her outside. Advanced level, ask for sit-stay at door, open door, dog has to wait 5-10 seconds before release cue is given, allowing them to go outside. 
  • Distractions using walking on Loose Leash: Beginner level: inside home. Advanced level is walking outside with every distraction in the world. 
As a gentle reminder, remember to reward everything you want, and to increase the value of the motivator when youre advancing those skill levels. (Motivation is another topic I bring up in the Guide Booklet" and throughout my dog training classes and private dog training sessions). 

This information can be found in the Guide Booklet of my newly developed Out of the Box Dog Training Game. Its also part of my various dog training class welcome packets and workbooks. The great thing about understanding this concept is it makes it easy for anyone to play the game, plus youll be able to play it over and over, all you have to do is to adjust the skill level as you go. 

Happy training to you and your dogs, and thanks again for the question! I love when people are as inquisitive as their canines. 

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Selasa, 03 Mei 2016

Taking Your Dogs Meal on the Road is a Win Win For All

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Ive been taking Poncho out to Kimball Park and the Ventura State Beach a lot lately, training him to run for longer periods of time while on leash... Yes, running for a sustained period of time is new for Poncho the dog... no "marking or sniffing", just exercise... 

Trust me, being a dog trainer I know I need to fulfill Ponchos dogginess, Im not a tyrant. I make sure I take him on separate outings for sniffing, marking, chasing things, and rolling in dead stinky stuff etc... But for the running/exercise part, its all about training those slow-twitch fibers...keeping his heart-rate up, and getting his yah-yahs out so hell want to relax at home, and have better concentration for when he sits at his computer and blogs

What I have found to be quite unsettling is that it seems Im the only doggy guardian out there using any kind of food rewards for rewarding those behaviors I want! For a dog, I would think going outside into the big beautiful world is like going to Disneyland! And if I want to keep Poncho motivated to run with this old slowpoke, vs romping and playing like a dog...then Im more than happy to pull out the leftover lunch meat. Not tons of it mind you, I dont want him to get sick,  just little nibbles every once in a while, and only for the action of "running". 

I witness all other dogs either be yelled at, choked, or completely ignored by their guardians - usually because theyre into their own world - however, their dog is straining to get to us...just to say *hi*. How horrible this must be for the other dogs. And I must say, I think this behavior on the humans part is hypocritical. We brings snacks for ourselves and/or for the kids. We stop at coffee places, fast food places etc...for our own "rewards", but yet being stingy with our dogs is a good thing. Well, I think not. 

So, I ask you, if youre spending time taking your dog out for walkies, try this experiment: bring some of their meal with you on the road, instead of giving it away for free out of a bowl. They might enjoy walkies more, and you might get those behaviors you want! Oh, and if youre already doing that, then you deserve a treat too! 

If you want to learn more about walking or running your dog with simple successful techniques, you might want to join in on one of my classes at the inquisitive canine studio or Ventura College...its rewarding for everyone. 

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Jumat, 29 April 2016

Not All Domestic Dogs Enjoy Being Bathing Beauties

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Throughout the summer, and even heading into our warm-weathered Fall, Poncho and I have received a few questions through our Dear Inquisitive Canine dog behavior advice column from dog guardians regarding their dogs "freaking out" when it came to swimming pools. The dogs either didnt want to go anywhere near it, or would bark and patrol the area when their human family members splashed about in the water. Even if the dog would jump in and out of the pool on their own, playing and going after toys, their reaction would often change when people would all of a sudden "disappear" underneath the water.

Being a dog mom myself I can surely attest to this. Poncho is definitely not a water dog. Hes
really not into going into any body of water. (Although, he does seem to enjoy bath-time; probably has more to do with the snackies).

Ive also witnessed my friends lab Chief jumping in and out of the water, playing and fetching his tennis ball. But as soon as his human family members dive under water, he begins barking and patrolling. Whats he thinking? Who knows. Im not a mind reader. Why is he doing what hes doing? Hmm, my best guess is that pools are just weird to dogs. And some dogs adapt more easily than others.

Whats the solution? Simple. Condition (teach) these dogs to adapt to these bizarre surroundings, watch for the behaviors you do like, even the smallest ones, and reward him or her for their "bravery" of being around pools. Keep in mind that it is always important to gauge a dogs comfort level, which you can do by reading their body language. And always take care in not pushing him or her beyond their “threshold.” Meaning, small steps to help get them used to being around a pool. Making it enjoyable for them, so they can build their confidence. Just like the old fashioned way of teaching us humans to swim by throwing us into the deep end has taken a long walk off a short pier, its not the best approach to teaching our dogs either.

For the complete article on the german shepherd being afraid of the swimming pool, please see our Noozhawk Dear Inquisitive Canine column. The following are additional training tips for helping your dog in stressful situations. In addition to the above suggestions, youll want to:
  • Gauge your dogs comfort level by seeing how easily s/he engages in the play activities, and if s/he is taking food rewards. Few animals eat when they’re scared and stressed. If they are eating tidbits of steak or chicken then use these items to reward him or her being near the pool. No pool, no high value treats. In this case its not punishment. Your dog is clearing letting you know theyre uncomfortable.
  • If s/he is not staying focused on you when near the pool, and not eating, this can be interpreted as being beyond his or her level of comfort, also known as his “threshold”. We all have a breaking point. It’s best to keep your dog below his or her level of stress so they can build their confidence and comfort level around the pool.
  • To help the process move along even more rapidly, you can begin the “pool = good stuff for your dog" training plan by introducing him/her to it slowly. Start out with just the two of you, sitting poolside, enjoying the sunshine. Play, have snacks, cuddle, then go inside - stop all rewards and attention. Do this a few times before making it more difficult for him or her. You can then sit with your feet in the pool, but not go all the way in. Those times when s/he chooses on their own to go lie in the water to cool off, go in with them, but wade in the area s/he is in, again providing all rewards that your dog responds well to.
So, if Poncho isnt a water dog, why did I go to the trouble of trying to get him in? Well, I wanted him to practice getting out of the pool. In case there was ever a time that he fell in a pool (we dont have one, but we have friends that do), he might be less scared. Yes I was hoping that he would enjoy it. But nope, even steak, chicken, and his tennis ball didnt change his mind. Sure I could take the time to condition him to love the pool. But since we dont have a pool, and its not a huge concern for us, and not a big priority, Id rather spend my time teaching him things that are more important for our lifestyle such as discrimination and agility. If I want to go swimming with dogs I have plenty of my friends dogs to choose from.

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Kamis, 14 April 2016

Its all in how you look at it training versus a chore

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Heres a question (or two) for all of you dog folks out there:

Do you exercise with your dog? Do you look at walking your dog as a chore? or something fun to do together...? A nice break in the day if you will...

I realized that just like me and my running, setting a goal is a great way to stay motivated. I looked around for a dog-friendly race so Poncho and I could go together, and lucky for us we found a few... Thank you Santa Barbara Athletic Association! So now Im not only taking Poncho for walkies, but were actually in training! At least thats how Im looking at it... 

I wonder if that "Moms in Motion" group will start a sub-group called "Dog Moms in Motion"? Ive asked... and have been ignored... bummer... I bet theyd get a lot more people signing up!

What are your goals with your pets when it comes to "exercise"?

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Senin, 04 April 2016

Getting All Choked Up Over the Use of Coercion in Dog Training

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Maybe its the latest applied behavior analysis class Ive just taken, maybe its the decongestant and antihistamine stupor Im in, but it occurred to me, just now, that maybe I need to try a new approach when speaking to those who still prefer to use choke, prong and Citronella collars to train their dogs.

Being of the positive reinforcement, humane, least intrusive approach to training dogs type of dog trainer, this means when I hear or see people go to the dark side, I try to get them to come on over to my camp, usually by explaining and demonstrating all of the wonderful and simple techniques such as shaping, lure and reward, with or without the use of a clicker. This is what I teach in my dog training classes, private dog training clients, and of course all throughout my dog training game!

But sometimes humans dont want to listen; I guess they might find it to be punishing. So instead of all of that, how about if I ask them this: How does it make you feel, deep down inside, when you choke, yank, coerce, yell at, berate, or cause harm to your dog just to get them to do what you want? Do you find it to be fulfilling and reinforcing to yourself? Or, as when one person called me today, do you feel bad inside about doing things like that to your dog?

If you feel bad about it, then I encourage you to dump the aversive techniques and try something different! Simple steps such as:
  • Reward behaviors you like and want! Praise, belly rubs, games of fetch and tug, or giving your dog a part of their meal - all will send a message of "I love when you do that!" And youll get more of that behavior.
  • Manage your dogs environment so theyre less likely to perform those undesired behaviors.
  • Provide outlets for your dog to let all of those doggy behaviors out!
Trust me, these three simple steps will help anyone achieve baby steps to their final goals. If you know someone who prefers the dark side, you might want to take that first step and forward them this information - who knows, you might find helping others to be reinforcing.

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Selasa, 22 Maret 2016

Punishment Used for Modifying Human or Dog Behavior Only Useful if Done Correctly and Enforced Consistently if at All!

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2010 is in full swing! And with a brand new year that means brand new laws going into effect. Youve probably read about some of the new California laws for 2010: Blueberries, paparazzi and cow tails just to name a few. Sure, all have their place in our legal system, but just like all laws theyre only good if theyre enforced! Otherwise, theyre just empty threats.

Why does this little dog trainer in Ventura bring this subject up? Mainly because:
  1. Punishment is still being used too often as a first-line treatment of dog behavior issues: Fancy, gimmicky, popular techniques have people focus in on undesired behaviors, then use methods that "dominate" and "control" with such maneuvers as pinning, pinching and poking! Ouch!
  2. When it is used, its not being used correctly: Consistency! Timing! The former is usually absent and the latter is usually off.
  3. The more common type of punishment techniques being practiced are less of the humane type and more of the nasty bully type (aka: aversive/coercive): Alpha rolling, pinning, squirting, zapping, and choking which often leads to additional behavioral issues that end up being more difficult to treat than the initial problem behavior!
Okay, first off allow me to clarify once again that just because Im a certified dog trainer who practices positive reinforcement reward-based dog training methods, whose philosophy is in the science camp of dog training, and one who will take the path of least resistance whenever possible, doesnt mean I dont use punishment. I do. However, not as the first step of any training plan. As a matter of fact I dont even bring it up until midway into my dog training classes at Ventura College or my dog training studio. I also use the type of punishment that causes the least amount of nasty side-effects, if any at all.

Whats the basis of my punishment approach if I indeed need to go that route? Simple, reward removal! Similar to sending a basketball player to the bench for one too many fouls, not allowing a dog to participate in an activity (greeting someone or a rousing game of tug) is the punishment.

Theres no reason to head down the "dark path" by kicking, smacking, choking, alpha rolling or "showin him whos boss" in order to get your point across. What do most animals learn when faced with threats and physical harm? How to avoid the punisher! As opposed to which behavior you wanted in the first place. One more reason why punishment should be used as a last resort and with a well thought-out dog training plan!

For additional information on aversive dog training techniques and punishment, please check this dog training tips post from last November.

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